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1
Cutting / Re: calibration
« on: September 03, 2019, 08:00:28 PM »
George (@ggallant571) hit the nail on the head. This type of calibration is best handled in the firmware, not in CAD/CAM Software. BCL software (as well as T2) can send the g-code configuration settings to the laser machine, but, as George pointed out, if you need Double data type precision vs Integer precision, that has to be handled in the firmware. BCL and T2 cannot force Double data type precision on the firmware if it wasn't designed for it.

2
Cutting / Re: calibration
« on: September 03, 2019, 06:14:32 PM »
These little lasers are not capable of tolerances better than 0.2%. Even if you can get that, it won't stay. As you use the machine, parts get lose or come lose. Your firmware idea is a good one. But it's not a mod that everyone can do. You have to know what you're doing.

3
Cutting / Re: calibration
« on: September 03, 2019, 05:54:51 PM »
Quote from: suwaiket on September 03, 2019, 08:31:37 AM
Hi
My cutting is about 0.2 % off what is in DXF file. Does the Bencutlaser has a motor steps length/distance calibration ability ?

Suwaiket

BCL does not have that capability. Make absolutely sure your laser system is rigged correctly. Belt tension, all nuts tight on the wheels and elsewhere, etc. If you machine is rigged correct, you should be able to burn pretty accurately. 0.2%I would say so, so check your machine carefully.

This post should have been in the BCL Software section else I won't see it. I just happened to spot it but I don't read every post around here outside of BCL Software. Unless you meant the Benbox software which is vastly different from my BenCutLaser (BCL) software.



4
BenCutLaser / Re: Laserbot Marlin (OPEN)
« on: May 31, 2019, 04:30:31 PM »
@Phil,

When I read your last post I did not see any attachments. But now I do. The laser cuts look great on the cardboard. It should turn out fine when you finally move to 3mm wood. Remember that you cannot use the same laser tool you used to cut your cardboard. You'll need to create a 3mm Wood laser tool, calibrate it and you'll be good to cut.

5
BenCutLaser / Re: Laserbot Marlin (OPEN)
« on: May 30, 2019, 12:48:42 PM »
@phil
The videos you should look at are the ones where you create a laser tool for a specific job. In your case to cut 3mm wood. Name your tool accordingly.

Then calibrate if by seeing what settings you need to cut 3mm wood. You'll want 100% power. Test burns/cuts will determine the best speeds per grain direction. Use the square test patterns to test your cuts. You'll need about 5 to 6 or so passes to cut 3mm.

Remember once you get your laser tool setup, that's your tool to cut 3mm wood. Don't change your settings and don't use that tool to cut any other type of wood. Each laser tool your create should be for one specific job only: cuts, surface burns light or dark, etc.

I did test burns using the test shapes when I had my laserbot but I don't have it up and running any more.

A z axis won't help much with a 1.6 w laser. I have a z axis with my 1.6 and it's not worth the effort in my opinion.

A blower is a highly desirable option to have. I recommend installing one to blow the ash away for cutting.

6
BenCutLaser / Re: Laserbot Marlin (OPEN)
« on: May 29, 2019, 02:07:11 PM »
Yes Phil, your test burns look like they should now. Good work.

7
BenCutLaser / Re: Laserbot Marlin (OPEN)
« on: May 20, 2019, 01:28:46 PM »
Obviously you should not see any gaps in your burns. This is a laserbot problem. I don't normally use a laserbot and therefore I don't see this problem. Do you have another laser system available to test with?

8
BenCutLaser / Re: Laserbot Marlin (OPEN)
« on: May 17, 2019, 08:23:27 PM »
There are not many:

Spacebar to assign a laser tool to a drawing object.
'r' to reverse a drawing object's direction.
Mouse wheel: zoom in and out on drawing.

Check right mouse click for popup menus when working with your drawing and assigning laser tools.

9
BenCutLaser / Re: Laserbot Marlin (OPEN)
« on: May 17, 2019, 05:41:31 AM »
What timezone are you located in? We need to do a screen share so I can see how you saved the toolpaths, etc. We can use join.me. Let me know what times work best for you today.

10
BenCutLaser / Re: Laserbot Marlin (OPEN)
« on: May 14, 2019, 12:46:31 PM »
The dxf file is 98% OK. No duplicate drawing objects. All drawing objects that are in the file are valid for BCL.

As you pointed out, there is one Polyline that wasn't created correctly. See attachment 2.png below. However, this polyline drawing object can be burned if you create a toolpath with all of the individual objects sequenced together correctly:

Polyline 60 (this object also needs it's direction to be reversed. Assign your tool and press the R key to reverse direction. See 1.png)
Arc001
Line033
Arc000
Line032
Arc003
Line034
Arc002

tp.png shows that I assigned my laser tool to each of the polyline drawing objects (as listed immediately above) and then I typed in a toolpath name and pressed Return and then clicked the TPSave link to save it. This toolpath file.

Here is a Youtube video I made to show you how to do this: https://youtu.be/c8OdkBsGKEs


11
BenCutLaser / Re: Laserbot Marlin (OPEN)
« on: May 14, 2019, 10:18:04 AM »
Hi Phil,

Now I understand. Thanks for explaining.

In the mean time, if you don't mind attaching your dxf file, I'll have a look at it and see what the quality of it is. You can do this as well using BCL but since you're still new to BCL, I don't mind checking the dxf file for you.

Thanks...

12
BenCutLaser / Re: Laserbot Marlin
« on: May 13, 2019, 06:34:09 AM »
I'm a bit confused here Phil. If you really want to cut on thin plywood then why are you burning on paper? Don't waste time burning on paper because it won't be the same (the settings that work on paper won't work on  plywood). So, I'm not sure why you would want to troubleshoot burning on paper, even re-compiling new firmware, etc. when you're real target is thin plywood?

I burned on paper myself and found that really light power settings produced an uneven burn line. This is due to the paper surface finish. Light burn lines are difficult to do on any material. At this point I don't think there is anything wrong with your system, but some photos would help me to see excatly what you are talking about.

Unless you really want to burn on paper, move on to your thin plywood and please report on your progress.

13
Z Axis / MOVED: laser etching on the curve
« on: March 12, 2019, 06:12:54 AM »
This topic has been moved to Tug Wilson.

http://benboxlaser.us/index.php?topic=3624.0

14
Wilson's Rotary Add-on / Re: laser etching on the curve
« on: March 11, 2019, 07:05:48 PM »
@Tug I sent you an email. I will be setting up your own area on this forum soon.

15
General Discussion / Re: Laser etching addict
« on: March 03, 2019, 08:16:21 AM »
"Hello George, welcome".

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