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Messages - Stonemull

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1
General Discussion / Re: Help on Z-axis reference
« on: Today at 05:29:03 AM »
D12 is standatd Z input, not sure if default grbl uses multiple home switch inputs or not, on mobile so not wading through code.
plenty of info on the grbl wiki, suggest having a read.

2
General Discussion / Re: Help on Z-axis reference
« on: December 09, 2017, 05:04:35 AM »
ok, 1.1f has it enabled by default, I suspect the T2 version has it compiled with it disabled as lasers generally have no Z axis or limit, so you will need to install the regular 1.1F from github or compile your own.

from config.h


// NOTE: Defaults are set for a traditional 3-axis CNC machine. Z-axis first to clear, followed by X & Y.
#define HOMING_CYCLE_0 (1<<Z_AXIS)                // REQUIRED: First move Z to clear workspace.
#define HOMING_CYCLE_1 ((1<<X_AXIS)|(1<<Y_AXIS))  // OPTIONAL: Then move X,Y at the same time.
// #define HOMING_CYCLE_2                         // OPTIONAL: Uncomment and add axes mask to e

3
General Discussion / Re: A3X rewired with flatcable
« on: December 09, 2017, 04:49:55 AM »
awesome !
very neat.

4
General Discussion / Re: Help on Z-axis reference
« on: December 09, 2017, 04:47:29 AM »
I have not tried a home switch on Z axis, is that what you mean by reference ?
If so, you can tell grbl to home only one axis I think with configuration bits.
If not, you could add a startup line to the reboot to raise Z axis 50mm on connection then drop 30mm say, jam it into the top end stop.
You could add a switch and connect it to the probe input and run a probe command.
Apart from that, you might need to compile your own version from source, the home command sequence is a little bunch of well commented lines and from memory, Z axis is not in the default sequence.

5
its doable but a lot of work and I have enough hobbys. I would probably tackle the pcb design if someone else wants to do software.. thats more work than fun for me.
without looking i am not sure the esp has enough I/O though you could expand it with a 23s17 or similar.

The killer is that grbl is designed from low level to use bit manipulation for the ports (all byte wide) and that would need a bit of shuffling to port across to what I assume is no longer byte access?
Perhaps starting with the mega2560 port would help, then you have a bunch of interrupts to ensure the same oevel of functionality.

not sure how you deal with 2 cores and how they communicate .. it could be as easy as sticking something like esp-link on the Rf core and a grbl port on the second, then you just need a virtual comport between them.

the display would be cool, might go looking at some new modules..

6
I did nothing clever, just plugged the esp serial from the node mcu directly into the mana se 'bluetooth' connector, the nodemcu has a volltage divider on the esp Rx so no need to be concerned with voltage levels.
software .. from memory i used Serial-TCP snd set up a virtual com port, set T2 to the virtual port and off it goes. I think installing serial-tcp destroys T2's anility to scan the available ports though, it is not the only casualty so it must break a windows function.


7
Oh yeh, I totally forgot it had no USB.. I'm stubborn to and would waste hours frigging around.

Since it takes files off SD then it may not even try and stream data off the serial, might just be a debugging port or programming port, it might be able to stream data if you knew the command to tell it to use the port.. so it's a long shot at best.

However, if you did want to have a look, you probably just need a USB-serial device, most likely a 3.3v one. I would suggest a CO2102 version, less driver hassles than with FTDI clones.
Plug it into Tx to Rx, Rx to Tx and ground

If you wanted to learn new stuff you could grab yourself a nodemcu board (esp8266) and program it with esp-link and use it as a wifi to serial device, I have driven my laser with one, in this case though its probably better to find a new hobby and wait for the Mana SE :)

8
Heh, welcome ti chinese lasers :)
The 80 is steps/mm .. which for a 16tooth cog is standard, 32mm per rotation, 200 steps per rev * 16 microsteps.
The little pots on the driver boards set the motor current, the motors can run up to around too hot to touch without issues. Dropping the pot will reduce current but also make it more likely to skip steps and redude top speed and torque. grbl has a setting to release the motors when not in use after just a split second if you want. I suspect the motors on a corexy need a bit higher torque, might be wrong..
SF might be max speed, 3000mm/min is about right.
If you connect to the laser with a serial program then you can interrogate the board and get a lot of data,  sending it $$ for instance returns all of the parameters, not sure what version you have, just knowing that would help .. assuming its grbl. Then you could cross reference those numbers agaibst what you see on front panel.


https://github.com/grbl/grbl/wiki/Configuring-Grbl-v0.9




9
General Questions / Re: Which way to go
« on: December 04, 2017, 07:06:13 AM »
57 in a few weeks, dammit, I just gained a year, thought I was turning 56 this year.

10
Engraving / Re: ac electro etching
« on: December 03, 2017, 03:54:05 AM »
what current do you need ?
a cheap arc welder will be around that range or a little higher.

30v AC rectified would be around 45V DC .. I can't think of much in the electronics region that would be around that apart from a mid range stereo amplifier, so maybe grab a junk stereo. Probably needs to be an old one though, you need the power transformer from it, a modern one is likely switch mode.

edit: I had a scrap hitachi HA-250 sitting in the wet grass outside the shed to go to the dump.
the 2 filter caps are 40V 5600uF so probably 70v or so rectified, or roughly 50V AC centre tapped, so 25V AC per side at a few amps.

11
Mini CNC / Re: Spindle motor arrived .. now to assemble a machine around it
« on: December 02, 2017, 09:04:30 PM »
Cheers for that Bill, a minimum pot would make sense, there is a LED that turns off when the control pot is low enough so perhaps it sets the threshold below which it shuts down.
I would say mine is a later version of yours, layout us similar, they have just updated the control circuit power from an iron transformer to a switch mode supply.
I probably have a higher voltage mosfet I can drop in, I used to repair big old 30"+ CRT Blaupunkt, Metz, Grundig etc TV sets and they had some massive mosfets in the supplys.
If mosfet fails it _should_ just blow the bejeezus out of the mains fuse in this though it may take a track or 2 with it, so a relatively easy repair.

12
General Questions / Re: Which way to go
« on: December 02, 2017, 05:24:48 AM »
If I did it again I would dremel away the top layer like pads as well instead of removing all the copper, it would allow soldering to both top and bottom layers of the copper then and give a much more secure connector.

Its not hard to find connection ports, it really mirrors both of the other drivers with the exception of the 'step' and 'direction' pins which goes to the previously unconnected Z outputs on the nano.
I took it from the capacitors instead as they were closer and that is the proper way to do it.

It is actually a quite poorly designed board, long tracks where they shouldn't be, thinner tracks for power routing when there is plenty of room to make them wider. I was tempted to improve it but its easily enough to cope with the job at hand.
Then I guess thats why the chinese pay me to design stuff for them, they sorta suck at it a lot if the time and I'm a bit of a perfectionist when I design a pcb.






13
Mini CNC / Re: Spindle motor arrived .. now to assemble a machine around it
« on: December 02, 2017, 05:10:20 AM »
Probably never going to attempt warranty so ripped off the sticker and pulled the top off.
Main switching mosfet is an IRFP540 which is rated at 500V and 20A, a little low for my mains again, I prefer 600V devices in my units.

On a quick look it appears the control pot is isolated from mains voltage with a transformer and optocoupler, there are 3 pots, one marked 'max' near the control circuit, one marked 'Cur' which I assume is set for the 500W motor current and another whose label is covered by the black gunk, I imagine that would be a feedback pot.

One thing to bear in mind with these, the motor is driven from chopped, rectified mains voltage, live chassis like an old TV set so it is imperative to treat the motor wiring as if it was a live wire and take the necessary precautions regarding inulation.



14
Mini CNC / Re: Spindle motor arrived .. now to assemble a machine around it
« on: December 02, 2017, 04:38:13 AM »
apart from a little vibration in the upper ranges which made it vibrate on the bench (not enough for it to actually move on the laminex, it just buzzed unless I had a finger on it) it is pretty damn quiet. At the upper speeds the main thing you hear is fan noise.

I had to pull it out and try again cause I did not take a huge amount of notice, so uploaded a noise test to youtube, I don't have a dB meter so I was talking while it ran to give a constant background noise for the mike AGC. I also put it on a piece of packing foam to get rid of the slight table vibration.

sorry for potato ipad video quality, not sure what the noise increase at the end is, maybe I touched something with the ipad.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lMeD_B1UVCM



15
Z Axis / Re: Adding z axis driver to stock Mana SE
« on: December 02, 2017, 03:51:55 AM »
I originally built this to drill printed circuit boards with one of the little geared stepper motors and a DC 12v spindle, then I changed to a brushless motor with a standard done ESC aand added a microcontroller to init the ESC and generate servo pulses from the laser pwm input.
Later I used it with the banggood z axis, it works fine.

Ts just an option, grbl has 3 axis control and I like just being able to unplug the third axis totally.

I have never used it for focusing, I agree it wouldnt be ideal, I have considered puttting one of the little steppers to turn the focus knob though.


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