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Messages - wild.bill

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General Discussion / Re: Software
« on: May 25, 2017, 03:54:57 PM »
Since I have a couple CNC Mill/Routers I should be able to help.
I am not sure about which level of software you are looking for.

In my controller I use the same GRBL that we all use in our laser systems with a few different $ settings.

To actually send the G-code to the controller I use GrblPanel.
To create the G-code from SGV and DXF files I have been using Estlcam which is not free but has a reasonable cost like the software we use with the lasers.

If you have a more specific questions I can try to help. I just shut my machine down after making yet another fidget spinner out of 1/4" aluminum. Oh the side effect is that it also can be used to open beer bottles.

T2 Engraving / Re: Z axis buttons
« on: May 16, 2017, 07:39:56 PM »
OK now I understand.
Cap's can help also make sure the power leads are twisted together.
Best would be if you have access to some shielded twisted pair.

STL / Re: PCB drill
« on: May 16, 2017, 07:31:35 PM »
Flex as in twist vertically ?
I was thinking about this last night and thought maybe a couple more if those angle brackets ion the top of the 2020 at the corners ti the sides of the 2040 would support the cornes a bit more, then cuttint the right size baseboard and bolting it to the underside of the 4 extrusions to give it more stiffness.

These are the machines I was thinking of.

The best way to describe it is the mid section of the beam was rotating some, and the end were not.
The bottom of the Z axis was able to move forward and back. I will attach a picture of it without anything mounted on the Z axis.

The machine you pointed to uses dual chrome rods for the the X axis gantry to move on and would have much less flex.

The laser frames would be fine for a light CNC as long as your expectations match its limitations.
The second attachment shows some of what I was able to do going slow.

T2 Engraving / Re: Z axis button
« on: May 16, 2017, 07:03:30 PM »
@bill, my grbl is configured for no motor disable, i think it is default, motors or drivers are staying cool no matter how long they are on, we are not pushing the step currents a mill does.

If grbl is configured for no motor disable ($1 must be 255) and the Z is slowly moving downward then you must be sending it commands to do that.
see [url][/]

What is $1 set to on the machine?

I am using the same Z axis with my laser and I am not getting any movement but the laser is much lighter and does not vibrate as much. My $1 is 25 which gives me 25 msec of hold after the motor stops moving.

STL / Re: PCB drill
« on: May 16, 2017, 06:43:01 PM »
I tried this a little while back. I used the same 2040 beam on the X axis and an OpenBuilds gantry with a dremel and I would say it was marginal at best. If you went slow it would cut wood OK but you could not put much force on the cutter because it would make the 2040 beam flex. It would work fine for light engraving. I am about to put it back together to do drawing and will probably put another laser on it.

The other problem is the dremel does not really have enough power to do more than light engraving. Your better off using some type of spindle for anything heaver.

T2 Engraving / Re: Z axis buttons
« on: May 16, 2017, 06:10:46 PM »
I am digging from memory some here, so it means I am not 100% sure.

When you use the motor to move an axes there is holding current on the motor only for a short period of time. After that if the load on the motor is enough like happens on the Z axis the weight can make the motor move. In GRBL $1 is the hold time in msec and I think the default is 25. If you want it to hold all the time you can set $1=255.

The warning is that this can make the motors hot. On my big CNC machine the stepper controllers that I am using, independent of GRBL can be set to hold using either full current or 1/2 current with switches.

You can probably find more in the GRBL wiki

T2 Engraving / Re: Z axis buttons
« on: May 16, 2017, 01:01:34 PM »
Now don't go spoiling my Aussie mode feature  ;)

So you're telling me my CNC is a**-backwards!

I do like the idea of Aussie mode.

With my CNC (with 3 different control programs) if I am at 0 and give Z5 it goes up, and Z-5 goes down. That also matches the up and down arrows.

it's only with T2 that I need to reverse the direction in GRBL to get the same behavior.
And for the record I won't talk about any ones a**.  ;)

T2 Engraving / Re: Z axis buttons
« on: May 16, 2017, 04:55:11 AM »
I will add from the US that your Z buttons move backwards to all of my other CNC cam programs. So I just reverse Z when using T2 and then change it back for the other programs.

+Z is up and -Z is down.

Projects / Re: Glass Baby!!!!!
« on: May 15, 2017, 06:24:46 PM »
When I was using paint I would use acetone to clean the paint off.

Projects / Re: Slate Baby!!!!!
« on: May 14, 2017, 06:32:01 PM »
Just something like construction paper?
That is what I have used - construction paper.

General Discussion / Re: You reckon I should buy this one .. too ?
« on: May 13, 2017, 08:10:11 AM »
With ABS I leave the fan off for the first 3 layers, and only turn it on when the layer time starts getting short. Most of the time its not needed.

If it still wants to curl try using a brim.

BTW I just finished a purple ABS spinner for a friends kid.

T2 Engraving / Re: T2Laser setup tutorial
« on: May 13, 2017, 06:08:34 AM »
That is all mechnical, so triple check belts, tracks, wheels ...

But also check the voltage on the stepper drivers - I can see that there were missed steps which is why it didn't make a closed circle.

General Discussion / Re: You reckon I should buy this one .. too ?
« on: May 13, 2017, 05:55:52 AM »
I always hated the blue painters tape because I had to retape after every print, and with the glass/hair spray you needed to respray a little after every 10 prints.

For the stick on stuff on my big printer I use think mirror glass and some get hair spray, but I also have PEI and BuildTak on other sheets. When you have that part that does not want to stay on anything is when I use BuildTak. I have had some that took me more than an hour to work off, but it was the only thing that would work.

Most of the time I use the PEI because I get .1" think sheets and glue them to the mirror glass. They are thick enough when they start getting marked up I just sand the surface smooth again.

General Discussion / Re: You reckon I should buy this one .. too ?
« on: May 13, 2017, 05:31:58 AM »
Times change, and I don't know what your printers came with to print on. My old i3 had the heated bed and you need to add something on top of it to print. On that printer I have always used glass and hair spray and it works great holding PLA and ABS (95% of the time I use ABS). After it cools a little I do the same as ZAX and put a scraper under a corner and get it to lift off.

On my second i3 I use the Pursa MK2 heated bed which came with a PEI surface on it. I have found that the plastic sticks to the PEI even better than it does on glass and does take a little more work on the corners to get the part off.

I just do an IPA wipe prior to each print to keep things sticking.

General Discussion / Re: You reckon I should buy this one .. too ?
« on: May 12, 2017, 05:39:22 PM »
for ABS I use 230/100

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