Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - wild.bill

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 12
1
BenCutLaser / Re: Makeblock - LaserBot (OPEN)
« on: Today at 02:10:04 PM »
I found their code on git and it is not normal Merlin. It looks like its a mix of a couple of things so taking the new Merlin code and trying to load it does not look realistic.

2
BenCutLaser / Re: Makeblock - LaserBot (OPEN)
« on: Today at 01:34:52 PM »
I don't know what version of Merlin they are using, but I have the 1.1.0-RC8 Merlin http://marlinfw.org/meta/download/code and it this code does support G20/G21 commands and it also has support for G2/G3.


3
Are you squaring the laser heat sink or the laser beam?

I just square the heat sink and for me that has been enough.

4
General Discussion / Re: Is this the z-axis we've been looking for?
« on: March 24, 2017, 09:53:31 PM »
I use a square to make sure the Z axis is perpendicular to the bed in both the X and Y axis (adjust as necessary) , then I repeat to make sure the router is on the same planes on its mount, and I do the same for the laser. As I was building it I made sure every part is squared as it goes on to make less work at the end.

With milling everything is 3D so it needs to be squared up, so you need to square up the entire machine. It takes time and use shims as necessary. With the CNC you mill the cutting bed as a final step.

5
General Discussion / Re: Is this the z-axis we've been looking for?
« on: March 24, 2017, 08:18:55 PM »
There is enough slop in the holes to get a little movement each way, then just use a square each way.

6
General Discussion / Re: Is this the z-axis we've been looking for?
« on: March 24, 2017, 07:22:07 PM »
Looking at Z-axis this is a picture of my laser mounted to the Z axis of my new CNC machine that I am building. I don't think it will even notice the weight of the laser.

The second picture shows the difference between the motors that came with the Banggood cutter and the motors I am using on the new machine. More than 5X the torque.

7
BenCutLaser / Re: Makeblock - Laserbot (OPEN)
« on: March 24, 2017, 04:19:08 PM »
Form the merlin source code - it looks like G20, G21 are not implemented.



#define VERSION_STRING  "1.0.2"

// look here for descriptions of G-codes: http://linuxcnc.org/handbook/gcode/g-code.html
// http://objects.reprap.org/wiki/Mendel_User_Manual:_RepRapGCodes

//Implemented Codes
//-------------------
// G0  -> G1
// G1  - Coordinated Movement X Y Z E
// G2  - CW ARC
// G3  - CCW ARC
// G4  - Dwell S<seconds> or P<milliseconds>
// G10 - retract filament according to settings of M207
// G11 - retract recover filament according to settings of M208
// G28 - Home all Axis
// G29 - Detailed Z-Probe, probes the bed at 3 or more points.  Will fail if you haven't homed yet.
// G30 - Single Z Probe, probes bed at current XY location.
// G31 - Dock sled (Z_PROBE_SLED only)
// G32 - Undock sled (Z_PROBE_SLED only)
// G90 - Use Absolute Coordinates
// G91 - Use Relative Coordinates
// G92 - Set current position to coordinates given

9
Folgertech / Re: Slow customer service
« on: March 22, 2017, 06:29:11 PM »
Another thought Ralph, what temp do you usually set your bed temp at and does it get there fast enough?

My thoughts - in marlin you can change BANG_MAX for the hot bed and dripping it should reduce the average current draw. Side effect is it will take longer to get up to temp.

#define PIDTEMP
#define BANG_MAX 255 // limits current to nozzle while in bang-bang

10
Folgertech / Re: Slow customer service
« on: March 22, 2017, 05:19:28 PM »
The power supply is fine and those connectors usually fail on the power supply side.

Something on that side of the connector creates some resistance which leads to heat which melts the connector. From the 3D printer groups some of the connectors have lasted for years and for some people they last less than a week.

11
Trouble Shooting / Re: Parts break loose from bed after 1 inch
« on: March 22, 2017, 04:41:41 PM »
you could try blue painter's tape.

12
Folgertech / Re: Slow customer service
« on: March 22, 2017, 04:34:28 PM »
Is there a metal pin that I can pressure slide onto each of these 4 pins and then solder the wire to? I'd like to find a cleaner and easier solution to this, not only for myself, but for others who maybe cannot solder the wires directly to the pins.

I don't know of anything that will work with those pin's.

Lets talk about what the real problem is and some possible solutions. The ramp's board is very popular with 3D printers but the current printer designs are pushing its limits. The power connector is only rated for 20 amps which is what many of today's hot bed's draw. Also the Mosfet design on the board for the hot bed doesn't really do well at 20 amps so the best thing to do is remove the load from the ramps board using and external device to control the power to the bed.

A lot of people are using SSR's and for a 20 amp load you really should use nothing less than a 40 amp SSR, I have melted a 25 amp one. Another solution is to use an external Mosfet and you can drive its input with the existing hot bed connection. I like the TriGorilla Mosfet - https://www.amazon.com/Additive-Manufacturing-Products-TriGorilla-Industrial-Scientific/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=n%3A6066126011%2Cp_6%3AAVCH3LIOAKMIT

There is a third option and that is to use a relay - and this is what I am using on my printers. From my local auto store I got some driving light relays that are rated for 50 amp.
The down side of the relay is you can't use PWM on the hot bed but my view is that the normal 12 volt hotbed is so slow heating I don't want PWM. Like the others I drive the coil of the relay with the leads that would normally go the hot bed.

Attached is an example of how these get wired, and with the SSR and Mosfet it can be done without soldering because the devices have screw terminals.

By doing any of these the current load on the ramps board is so low the connectors they use have no issue.

13
General Discussion / Re: Link for better same spec wheels?
« on: March 22, 2017, 02:38:03 PM »
They are the openbuild wheels.

They are more expensive than some but they are good quality. I put them together properly (washer between the two bearings) and you can tighten them as much as you want and they still turn fine.

Most of the pictures of the things that I build almost always have some openbuild parts in them.

14
General Discussion / Re: Link for better same spec wheels?
« on: March 22, 2017, 08:15:49 AM »
Wow, that's a lot of wheels - look great. Something you made?

Regards, John.

Working on a new CNC machine that will allow me to start making aluminum parts

15
Folgertech / Re: Slow customer service
« on: March 22, 2017, 04:43:44 AM »
Well, I ordered the XT60's and some brass connectors but the brass connectors are too big of a diameter to fit the 4 pins coming out of the RAMPS board.

I don't think the XT60's will work either as one doesn't fit the two pins very solidly and then, as the attachment shows, leaves no room for the other XT60.

So, I'm still puzzled how I'm going to make this work.

I use 16g wire to make a smalll pigtail. Solder one end into the board and the other into the XT60.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 12