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Messages - Lob0426

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General Discussion / Re: New A3 with screen and sd slot
« on: Today at 12:24:14 PM »
It is a LCD controller board plus a laser controller. But I have only seen these on more powerful controllers like the RAMPS, Prusa i3, Printerbot and a few other 3D printers. So that laser controller is likely more than a Nano based controller.

General Discussion / Re: New A3 with screen and sd slot
« on: September 23, 2017, 11:04:14 PM »
Need T2 for Linux that works on a Raspberry Pi 3 with the touchscreen!

Full Wifi, Bluetooth enabled Laser............

Ok I woke up!

Depends on how much ability the system has to access files on the SD card. If you can save a file to access later, or does it only run the last file put on the card? Since it has that joystick it probably can access multiple files. Wonder what it uses for a processor and firmware?

General Discussion / Re: Prussa I3 Mk3
« on: September 23, 2017, 07:46:13 PM »
Removable bed and filament monitoring.

I think I could modify my Printrbot simple to the removable bed sheet thing. But not the Play model. Have to look into it.

Mini CNC / Finally made some chips!
« on: September 23, 2017, 07:35:16 PM »
Well after almost 2 years not using my equipment as CNC I have been trying to get back to it!

Last week looked at some of my old gcode. Might as well have been in greek! So I sat down and look it over until it started making sense again. I have used the machines manually for some small repair stuff, but have not used it CNC.

I decided to build the "Millie Steam engine" project in the back of Joe Martins "Tabletop Machining" Book. The only stock I had on hand for the flywheel and crank wheels is some 1018 steel bar .75" X 1" x 7". I decided to mill a cylinder for the wheels from that bar on the CNC mill. Then finish them in the lathe.

I used an edge finder and centered up my bar, center drilled it, then drilled the 1/8" hole through. Then tried to tackle the gcode to cut the cylinder from the bar stock.

And of course just as I had the code edited the computer froze up. Rebooted appeared to be working and edited code again. froze up and would not save again, frozen. Tried to boot it again and it said I had to choose a different boot drive, Great!

Had to dig it out of it's hole and pull the side panel. No loose cables that I could find. Nothing obvious, just some dust and not really much of that. This computer maybe has 100 hours on it total, no reason for it to be acting up! Used an air can and blew it out! It booted. Edited and saved the code no problem, I guess third time is the charm!

Ran the code in simulation and found some errors, fixed them, tried running the code as a flyover (running the code with the bit well over the work) to make sure it is starting in the right place and speeds and such appear right. Had to change the start point of the "arc" as it was not cutting arond 0,0 but to the high right. More head scratching. Got everything right finally.

Finally started cutting. realized the "cylinder" did not appear large enough. It wasn't it was .625" not .8". I let it finish cutting down to .35" (I can use this piece for the crank wheel) and then stopped it recalculated the tool path by hand (should have let tool compensation do it). Reset to zero and started cutting a larger circle over the current cut. Made it back down to .35". At .38" the mill bit decided to come loose (an idiot must have not tightened it enough!) and it knocked the vice out of position. Emergency stop and look everything over!

Overall, not my day! But starting to remember the basics and made some chips. I want to check the tram of the machine before I try again. It was not a hard bang and nothing got trapped, but might as well check it to be sure! Should be ready for another try soon!

Trouble Shooting / Re: New diode for elekslaser A3
« on: September 20, 2017, 12:06:37 AM »
why did you murder that laser

It literally became a shadow of itself. I had to send it to the great diode beyond!

(it would only make a light blue beam that could not warm wood.)

It was only 500mw anyway. So when it's life force dimmed, I suspect the driver was bad, I destroyed the original diode trying to get it out. It now has a M140 2W diode and a 1.8A SuperX driver from DTR Laser shop.

The M140 has a nice narrow tight beam.

As others will attest to, these modules will give you a real good fight, if you are determined to upgrade them. Lots of soaking with finger nail polish remover.

The host is a 20mm Aluminum so you really cannot put a very powerful diode in them. The stock 2.5W is probably close to the upper end of diode for that host. The 5.5W uses a 20mm brass host. My 3W has a copper 12mm host from DTR Laser in a chicom Aluminum heat sink, from EBAY, plus heat sink compound. It runs cool on long runs.

So not a murder so much as a mercy killing!

Trouble Shooting / Re: New diode for elekslaser A3
« on: September 19, 2017, 07:58:50 PM »
We need to clarify this some.

Just so others who read this do not get confused. You all obviously know what he is talking about. But others might not.

What he is asking about is a "Laser Module".

I have a picture below.

General Discussion / Re: Does the smoke effect the burn?
« on: September 19, 2017, 07:41:33 PM »
The smoke refracts a percentage of the beam. I could see when a track of smoke crossed the beam. A properly placed fan keeps the smoke out of the Laser beam for a more consistent burn.

General Discussion / Re: YOUR COUNTRY.
« on: September 19, 2017, 06:17:25 PM »
So does that mean I cannot call out Commiefornia, USA? LOL!

Mini CNC / Re: Burr bits
« on: September 15, 2017, 10:33:07 PM »
I have used the Dremel bits and have had decent luck with them! They use the 1/8" (3.17mm) shank. The bit breaks off well before the shaft can bend. They have to be used pretty rough to break them.

Mini CNC / Re: Mini CNC
« on: September 10, 2017, 10:39:30 AM »

I have a clamp that has a little 30deg nip from a corner too! Sounded real bad as it is a steel clamp and I was cutting at Aluminum speeds.

MegaPi / Looking at the MegaPi board
« on: September 06, 2017, 02:49:20 AM »
I have been looking at the MegaPi board. It sounds like it needs a Raspberry Pi to operate. That is not true, it can operate with a serial interface with no RasPi attached. Used like this it is a Mega2560 controller.

When attached to a RasPi it only uses 10 pins (2X5 header). It does not connect to the full 40 pins on the RasPi. It uses only serial pins. The RasPi has to be externally powered by a separate 5V source (wall wart).

They have a full image available for Raspbian with bcnc. You can directly control the steppers through Java with the Raspberry Pi touch screen. With the right software the RasPi obviously can directly control the board and it can update firmware.

Very little information available on software that will work or can be made to work on the pi to control the megapi. Makeblocks has a marlin based firmware as far as I know right now and it supports grbl.

The most used board is the raspberry Pi 3. Giving it the ability to be remote controlled through VNC or TightVNC over WiFi. When it was controlling a robot.

So what else is known about this board and software?

Laser Accessories / Re: Neat take on 4th axis
« on: September 05, 2017, 07:16:08 PM »
Mechanical 4th axis! Who would of thought? LOL! Bet it is fun figuring out the right distances to move to get the right amount of roll!

Custom Size Frames / Re: Laser rapid speed limit?
« on: September 05, 2017, 07:12:19 PM »
I would be happy with 8,000. I was worried about the momentum as well. I'll run a couple tests and see. 4500 was pretty slow and the machine had no issues handling that.

I was surprised by homing operations at the high speeds. I did not encounter any stuttering on a single axis at 20,000. I do not remember any with dual axis movement either. BUT, on an A5 machine I suspect I never reached anywhere near the max setting due to ramp up/ramp down under acceleration management. Just not enough room. It was hauling along. But my homing operations are separated per axis, X then Y. I did test returning to 0,0 and moving to the opposite corner with both axis simultaneously. Due to wheel chatter I only tested this below 12,000. Also it should be noted that I run my belt tension tighter than either Zax or Ralph recommend! This was only axis movement No laser.

If you have homing switches;
I did encounter the homing switches being jammed by the X and Y axis slamming into them too fast. The Y axis At 10,000 I had the homing switches jammed about 40% of the runs. At 12,000 it was 100%. And increasing homing pull off did not help. End result is my machines homes properly between 6,500 and 8,000, reliably, depending the machine. The X axis can move faster and work well without jamming up. Mine worked 100% at 10,000 if I remember correctly. I just have not bothered setting them separately.

Custom Size Frames / Re: Laser rapid speed limit?
« on: September 05, 2017, 10:39:25 AM »
I have run it as fast as 20,000. Someone else ran it at 25,000. The controller maxs at 32,000 I believe.

The limit is the wheels and bearings. At around 12,500 I started hearing grinding noises. This was from the wheels. You can oil them and get them to run quiet at higher speeds. The "But" here is that your machine will walk all over the table at these speeds. So you can only really use real high speeds if you bolt the machine down. Then you still have to contend with the inertia of those parts moving. Accuracy suffers from the vibration. And you really only achieve those speeds when on long runs as the accel/decel settings ramp up movement and ramp down movement.

I found the 8,000 setting was a good compromise. But most set to 6,000.

There are several discussion about speed in the forum.

Mini CNC / Re: Mini CNC
« on: September 03, 2017, 12:18:12 PM »

My Mill is as precise as a razor blade, if I do my part. It will cut a 2" circle that is less than .002" (.0508mm) out of round from 1/4" aluminum plate.

But it is about as loud as a chainsaw when milling steel. It is mounted to a board for stability. It is on a old wooden dining table and I think that makes it louder as it acts like a drum when cutting.

The Lathe is pretty quiet with steel or Aluminum. Mostly motor noise with a cutting hiss. It is mounted on a board also.

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