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Messages - Zax

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 215
1
Engraving / Re: Engrave Wood Container
« on: Today at 01:19:06 PM »
The simplest solution would be direct coupling like the EleksEgg machine (similar to a lathe with a tail stock) but the more common methods are either 2 rollers or 2 sets of adjustable wheels (best).

If you do use the egg design make sure to add a reduction gear / belt to increase torque and accuracy.

Take a look at this design too: https://grabcad.com/library/laser-rotary-attachment-for-k40-1

There are many on thingiverse too.

2
Engraving / Re: Engrave Wood Container
« on: Today at 01:09:25 PM »
I use T2Laser, but there's no special software as such. I unplug the Y-axis on my CO2 and connect the rotary chuck. Then just change the steps per mm to match the object I am using, that's a simple calculation based on circumference.

The motor isn't compatible with the diode system but in theory you could do the same (unplug both Y-motors and connect the rotary to non-reversed one).


3
Cutting / Re: cutting speeds
« on: Today at 10:04:52 AM »
Search "aluminum honeycomb" on ebay, lots of options.

4
General Discussion / Re: eleksmaker forum
« on: Today at 09:22:06 AM »
Yes, it was posted a few days ago. It's a good start with assembly information, and should help newbies get up and running. Of course they could save the effort and just direct users here  ;D

http://benboxlaser.us/index.php/topic,1420.msg20377.html#msg20377

5
A TTL laser uses the laser connector, it has the PWM output (S-pin). A non-TTL laser uses the motor connector which is switched with a MOSFET.

I tested both options with T2Laser firmware, using my 2500mW non-TTL and 2W TTL lasers.

The board and firmware work fine, which is why I concluded your laser is faulty.

6
Cutting / Re: cutting speeds
« on: Today at 09:11:24 AM »
Yes, it's expensive. I don't have a good source either, the last sheets I purchased were from eBay but the seller has since disappeared.

7
I have the 2W TTL module. With only 12v connected (no PWM source) the laser is off.

8
Cutting / Re: cutting speeds
« on: Today at 08:23:21 AM »
That's why I use a honeycomb cutting bed, it's also raised so air is sucked through once the beam makes a cut.

9
As I said, I have the same board and using my Grbl 1.1e firmware it works correctly.

10
Without knowing the context of those posts it's difficult to say, there are other reasons for the laser to be permanently on but usually a mismatch between firmware and board. In your case it seems that is not the cause but some hardware fault.

11
General Discussion / Re: 40watt Co2 laser rebuild
« on: Today at 07:29:32 AM »
If you eliminate all air and it's a closed system (pump is underwater, no leaks) it won't drain, mine doesn't, even after several weeks of non-use.

Air bubbles get trapped around the internal mirrors causing hot spots and premature failure of the laser tube, in the first few days you may have to remove them each use (tilt and tap).

12
Probably a bad laser then, maybe EleksMaker Z can confirm but if it's always on even with the S (PWM) pin disconnected from the board and laser side grounded then it has to be faulty.

13
General Discussion / Re: 40watt Co2 laser rebuild
« on: Today at 07:09:56 AM »
Good to have you back, and look forward to more pictures of the setup.

So far it's looking like a great design, one of the biggest problems is air in the tube so be very careful to remove all bubbles and ensure no air gets in from the pump or tubing. When you turn off the pump it will drain if you have any air in the system. I suggest using DI water (or demineralized water) and perhaps a few drops of clear antifreeze (ethylene glycol) to prevent bacteria growth.

I would highly recommend adding a flow switch, connected to the laser enable interlock (same as the doors should be) and either a water temperature alarm or interlock. These 2 items saved me several times and my laser tube has lasted 10X what I expected.

The mirrors are first surface, meaning the reflective flash  is on the front and not behind glass (for obvious reasons) so they do get damaged easily if you aren't very careful cleaning them. The good news, scratches have little to no effect as you only use a very small area so just move where the beam hits and it's OK. Mine look pretty terrible but work great.

Haha... I like the CE comment.

I replaced my driver board (it failed) and use T2Laser  ;)

14
Cutting / Re: cutting speeds
« on: Today at 07:01:53 AM »
OK, the values are mm/min so 50 is a good place to start but set multi-pass to 3 or 4 and see how it does.

I've only used "Laser grade birch ply" which has a water based epoxy and cuts really easy, it also helps to have air assist.

15
That doesn't sound correct but I didn't purchase the kit, just the Mana SE and Mana CNC boards to test with T2Laser.

So I wired my TTL laser myself, it should have 12V, GND and PWM. I was suggesting to remove the PWM pin from the Mana SE board so you can ground it, that way you know for sure it's a laser issue but you may have found the problem.

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