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Messages - Stonemull

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1
General Discussion / Re: Could an A3 machine become a 3D Printer?
« on: September 29, 2017, 09:41:09 AM »
I don't think there is anything wrong with the belt drive, so long as it is well setup. Sane drive ratio as my 3d printers, just single length belt instead of a tensioned loop, my solidoodle uses one motor, a drive shsft and pulleys on both sides to drive Y, I suspect the dual motor setup is an improvement, just more expensive.
Bolt a piece of wood under the table and you will have no issue with Y axis rigidity .. X is a matter of getting the carriage right.
The Z will be the issue if you need to print tall.
Actially what I would do is lift the whole machine up, mount an extruder to the carriage then have a work surface underneath that drops down for the Z, that is how my solidoodle works actually, the X and Y stay fixed up top and the bed moves up and down. Of course that means the wood under the bed is a no go as you need to print through it.
The entire Z is a 3D printed assembly on 2 12mm?  rods and an 8mm screw, nothing special, since it only holds the weight of the printed object  and bed there is very little stress on it.
The trick would be to raised up chassis not rocking around with X and Y movements.
Attached photo of insides showing Z, its been in bits for a few months, thinking of bowden-ifying it and changing to a Rumba board for multiple extruders.
I think its doable without huge issues, getting really good quality would be tricky is all unless you make it really rigid.


2
Mini CNC / Re: PCB creation
« on: September 28, 2017, 07:40:52 AM »
Revisited this in the last few days, making a larger pcb you soon discover that ANY misalignment on the axii's height wise makes the job impossible without correcting for it.
So grab a copy of openCNCpilot and use the height map function with a probe.
Board designed in kidad, plotted as gerber plus drill file, import into flatcad, create isolation data then gcode, import gcode into opencncpilot and apply the map data, start job.

This is the first time I have also cleared the non copper from the region as well as done the isolation cuts.

https://youtu.be/pGRAhAFHx3I

One that is done, import the excelion drill file into flatcam, create the drill nc file, drill..

The bottom layer I import into flatcam, mirror it, then apply a small offset repeatedly until a specific hole is over the 0,0 origin on the screen. I use the first hole in a vertical column of holes.

When ready to cnc, line the board up with that hole, then check that moving the axis tracks the row of holes, set zero. start milling.

last job is to cut the board out with edge cuts.

3
Projects / Re: Glass Baby!!!!!
« on: September 21, 2017, 08:30:14 PM »
Nice, that edge lighting works well.

I bought a strip of WS2813ís this week, hope to make something amazing, might start with an upgrade to my infinity coffee table.


4
Engraving / Re: Engraving into colored acrylics
« on: September 20, 2017, 09:16:33 AM »
my apologys, i must have clicked the same link twice.

5
Engraving / Re: Engraving into colored acrylics
« on: September 19, 2017, 04:27:27 AM »
Cheers, but a UK specialty store is as bad a US specialty store since I am in australia.
I will add "engraving laminate" to the search list though .. still nothing on aliexpress or banggood, surely they sell it somewhere..

6
Projects / Re: My Rotary Axis
« on: September 18, 2017, 10:20:28 PM »
I suspect if you could pause the printing at known layers you could:

1. Design in groves equal to the wire diameter and path.
2. Manually place the wire in the grove.
3. Design holder slots for battery clips.
4. Insert and encase the battery terminals.

Probably could use bare wire to minimize the intrusion.

I make a few things with terminals and wiring, sometimes get lazy and just melt TCW (tinned copper wire) into the print, sometimes use slots and a dab of hot glue.
I also melt AA keystone battery terminals into things, I like them a lot .. used them one of my test designs that pulse tests 18650's at over 70 amps.



then you could use conductive filaments and make a real battery box with no wires! I dont think they are that conductive though.  Maybe they are... who knows.  But could you imagine building the wiring in without any wires what so ever.
  .. no, conductive filament is pretty much signal wiring, quite high resistance .. thgough it is improving and is now LED capable.

This video is pretty good and worth a watch if interested.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fm8IR-lBfRQ

edit: attached dual 26650 holder with keystone terminals



7
T2 Engraving / Re: Weird...
« on: September 18, 2017, 10:08:20 PM »
I used to use Eagle and a photoresist method (Cape Fear Press photoresist) that needed negatives, inkjet print onto Hi-Res clay coated paper, wipe paper down with baby oil to make it translucent then expose under sunlight or UV lamp.

I used to 'plot' in .ps format (tick the negative box) then convert to pdf with a free tool that came with acrobat v1, they later dropped the free tool and now you have to pay or use ghostscript etc, in the end I used an online ps to pdf converter usually as it just worked without hassles.

Not sure if that is helpful AT ALL :) but I imagine something out there can convert a ps file into a useable format that is accurately scaled.

See my thread on pcb making in 'projects' section .. I now use Kicad exclusively and import gerbers into T2 and expose with a 50mW 404nm laser.

Made this PCB a few nights ago .. https://imgur.com/a/t63WJ

8
Projects / Re: Wood box with exhaust fan setup
« on: September 18, 2017, 06:58:02 AM »
.. and pets.

9
Engraving / Re: Engraving into colored acrylics
« on: September 18, 2017, 06:52:22 AM »
While on the topic of acrylics .. does anyone know somewhere to buy laminated acrylic  .. the type that once you cut through the top layer a different colour is displayed ?
It is commonly used for making signs in the miltary as it is virtually indestructible once made, I can find it for stupid prices but nothing cheap, was looking for it on aliexpress, banggood, DX etc and not some US based specialty store.
I think the most common name is 'laminated signwriting plastic' .. eg https://www.engraving-supplies.com.au/trainings/engraving-materials-for-laser/

Quote
The typical engraving material used for laser engraving signs, name tags and labels is a two-layer plastic sheet, also known as micro surfaced plastic, engraving plastic or engraving laminate. It consists of a very thin top layer of many different colours that is laminated onto a core layer of a contrasting colour. By engraving the material, the top layer is being removed and the core layer appears. It is the most commonly used engraving material for laser processing and it is also suitable for rotary engraving.


10
General Discussion / Re: 'free' replacement mirrors.... from HDD platters
« on: September 18, 2017, 06:46:01 AM »
Its worth a try imo, if it gets hot or even burns then it's obviously unsuitable, if it doesn't .. then its a mirror harry.

11
Mini CNC / Re: Burr bits
« on: September 15, 2017, 06:58:36 PM »
Keep meaning to update this but forget ..

One of these burrs snagged in my dreml and the dremel collet managed to gouge oart of the shank, later, another one I was a bit rough with using it in a dremel on a steel hole, bent the shank.

So the burrs themselves are great, tough as nails, the shanks though are made from low quality chinesium alloy.
Just need to play nice with them.


12
Kits / Re: Laser Engraver Spacers
« on: September 10, 2017, 08:56:52 PM »
Mine has chunky brass inserts on either side of the wheels, I guess yours is an early version ?
A nut would clash with the bearing dust cover but these are small enough diameter, they work well.





13
Mini CNC / Re: Mini CNC
« on: September 10, 2017, 04:54:05 PM »
It was deep enough into the wood that the 6mm shank hit the clamp before the 5mm mill so I was spared the horrible noises.

Got a message from this guy on reddit lsst night, check out e video of this beast ..

https://github.com/madcowswe/ODriveFirmware

14
Mini CNC / Re: Mini CNC
« on: September 10, 2017, 08:28:46 AM »
I have a feeling the CNC-cutting is a strange order. Why not deep mill each compartment at a time, and at the end mill the surrounding rim? This would be done relative easy with some simple G-code.
I think it is a lot faster, than a kind of raster as you have done at the moment.

Quote
Stupid parallel X machining, I originally processed it correctly using Waterline machining (vector instead of raster basically) .. except the feed rate was 1500 and cut depth 2mm and the first lap scared the crap out of me and also ran into one of..

15
Mini CNC / Re: Mini CNC
« on: September 07, 2017, 08:08:50 AM »
To give an idea of noise I uploaded a short video, this is 500mm/min, 1mm Z steps though this is the final pass of the roughing cut and is 0.5mm depth.
Stupid parallel X machining, I originally processed it correctly using Waterline machining (vector instead of raster basically) .. except the feed rate was 1500 and cut depth 2mm and the first lap scared the crap out of me and also ran into one of the clamps.
I was knocking up a quick holder for the mill bits in their plastic cases to do on the 3D printer then thought I might see how the mill goes with it. Well it was noisy and took 1,5 hours, so 3D printing it would have been a lot faster, cleaner and produced a better item :)

Also .. just noticed looking at the gcode that it must have defaulted back to a 3mm end mill instead of the 5mm I had in the machine .. so many traps for unobservant young players. So My 13mm cutouts are actually 15mm..


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RkLCuk-plac

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