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Messages - Landbo

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Projects / Re: Couples portraits - Brought to you by Dithering
« on: January 10, 2018, 09:21:34 PM »
Not bad, actually really nice. There you've just hit the spot.   :)

Regards Leif.

General Discussion / Re: Technique for Creamic tiles with diode laser
« on: January 05, 2018, 10:06:36 PM »
Yes how beautiful.

Had even thought of trying the same on a white tile, but lack of black spray paint in my house has made it only been at the thought. I have to go to town and buy something.    :D

Regards, Leif.

T2 Engraving / Re: vacation
« on: December 30, 2017, 05:58:49 PM »
Thank you, Zax. Enjoy the trip/holiday and happy new year.    :)

Regards Leif.

Cutting / Re: Cutting Styrene Plastic
« on: December 30, 2017, 05:07:29 PM »
PVC is even worse, it develops at high temperature hydrochloric acid - be careful

Hydrochloric acid as such, is not hazardous to health, provided you do not take a bath in the liquid.

Styrene develops vapor/smoke that is suspected of being highly cancer-inducing. You probably do not notice that before after 10-40 years!   ;)

Happy New Year, Greetings Leif.

General Discussion / Re: Video shows brass inserts, I've got plastic tubes
« on: December 22, 2017, 03:15:31 AM »
The assembly video shows brass threaded inserts before and after the wheel. For spacers.  Ive got back plastic tubing spacers to go on each side of the wheel. What's up with that. How cheap can they go and will they hold up?

Generally, plastic spacers are bad as they are easily tied together, brass spacers are much better. If you do not have brass spacers you can drill some 4mm nuts up with an 5mm drill and use 2-3 pieces in extension. They are almost better than brass spacers.

Merry Christmas, Leif

FAQs For New Users / Re: If you could do it over, what would you buy?
« on: December 13, 2017, 04:58:52 PM »
You should not expect to cut much more than paper, cardboard or thin veneer with a diode laser and achieve a good result. If you need to cut the mentioned matrials, invest in a CO2 laser machine.

My experience with a blue 2.5 watt diode laser on an EleksLaser A3 Pro says it's great for engraving but inconvenient for cutting. Therefore, I also have a K40 CO2 laser that has an output power of 37 W and yet too small to cut an 4 mm birch plywood at once.

Regards Leif.

General Discussion / Re: need help with power of 2watt M140 Laser
« on: December 09, 2017, 05:57:01 AM »
well i have the diode inside a 12mm coper housing well pressed in and then the 12mm housing is inside a Aluminum Housing the and a 4cm Ventilator is blowing al the time so i dont think it was overhaeting....

anyway i get a new one from the Reseller and i will ad a 2nd Ventilator in front of it,,



Yes, it should be cooling enough for a "small" laser diode. Good luck with the replacement.

Regards Leif.

Cutting / Re: Cutting Styrene Plastic
« on: December 08, 2017, 12:57:19 PM »
Has anyone cut Styrene Plastic?

Have not tried.

Will just make you aware that the fumes from a cutting styrene is properly not the most healthy to breathe, so be careful.

Regards Leif.

General Discussion / Re: need help with power of 2watt M140 Laser
« on: December 08, 2017, 12:40:25 PM »
well after setting up a new TTL Board the laser is not working it is not burning anymore there is a blue light and on starting a burnjob it goes high for a second then its only a soft light with no power ..the Board is setup with 4.9 volt and on the Testload the AMP was 1.6 A i think this diode was faulty from the begining....


Sorry to hear that. You may have trouble cooling the diode properly. It requires that the housing on the diode to be kept very cold.

Regards Leif.

General Discussion / Re: need help with power of 2watt M140 Laser
« on: December 08, 2017, 04:34:44 AM »
yes i have a single Lens  and a 3 glass Lense also i tried the lensy of my 2.5 banggood laser .....maybe my laser is to far away i have read  5cm is the best height to mount it ?

Yes, okay with the lens. At some distance, your lens can no longer focus and the dot gets bigger where it hits. However, it is too short distance from the lens to the subject that causes that problems. It will certainly not be a bad idea to experiment with the distance down to the topic to be engraved.

Maybe you have too big or small distance between the lens and the laser diode ??

Regards Leif.

General Discussion / Re: need help with power of 2watt M140 Laser
« on: December 06, 2017, 10:59:40 AM »
Hi there
i have soldered a M140  2Watt Laser Diode 5,6mm inside a coper housing now when i start burning i get a poor laser Beam not even half the Power like my 2.5 Watt 9mm Banggod laser ....the M140 is driven by a standard TTL Driver from china with 4.9 Volt and 1.7 Amp..
could it be my pottrimmer is broken ?

Do you have a lens on the diode?  It is required so you can focus the beam for cutting and engraving.

Regards Leif.

General Discussion / Re: MIT concept printer
« on: December 01, 2017, 02:25:32 AM »
This could be interesting, up to 10x faster and melt with a laser.

The way to 3d print has MIT probably patent on for the next 20 years so it will not be something we can enjoy with our cheap machines. As I understand, the print will also be stronger provided they can control the laser in such a way that the filament does not get too hot and degrades.

Regards Leif.

T2 Engraving / Re: What causes the waves?
« on: November 29, 2017, 05:54:19 AM »
I've seen a lot of different machine problems, this certainly looks like a hardware issue to me but the user swears the machine is perfect from a mechanical perspective.

I have tested his G-code on my laser and it works correctly so I am also confident it's not software related.

I still think it's the wheels, as it's got a repeating pattern - has anyone seen this and knows what to check?

It looks like something that is written in very small letters?

My guess would be that the machine's belt is too loose or the belt is too elastic in relation to what it should pull. Ask the man half the speed of the machine and write the same again. Changing in the pattern will tell you where the error is.

I do not think the error is due to dirty wheels/wheels rail.

Regards Leif.

General Discussion / Re: Some measurements of output power on my k40.
« on: November 29, 2017, 05:28:44 AM »
I only measured the tube output to final beam when the machine was new but the losses were less than 10%.

You must be losing partial beam from one of the mirrors, or it's not aligned with the final housing. If you put masking tape over each mirror in sequence is the spot centered?

You should see ~36W at the head, before it hits the final mirror and is directed down to the lens and then 34~35W once focused.

I have checked that the beam hits approximately in the middle of the mirrors throughout the beam path. The mirrors are all cleaned. It must be the quality of the mirrors (the ability to reflect the laser beam) that is bad. This is probably the cheapest the manufacturer has been able to buy. My mirrors look like a plain mirror and are not coated with gold.

Has come to the end, it will be necessary to buy new mirrors if the machine is to be better and cutting.    :'(

EDIT: Forget and tell that the loss seemed to be evenly distributed across the three mirrors.

Regards Leif.

General Discussion / Re: Some measurements of output power on my k40.
« on: November 29, 2017, 03:43:35 AM »
Please provide some details as to the tools and procedures used.

It's simple, I'm using a laser powermeter, which in its simplicity consists of an thermometer on which an metal block is mounted on the tip. When used, place the block in front of the laser beam for x number of seconds. Instead of degrees Celsius or Fahrenheit, the thermometer is calibrated in Watt instead.

Regards Leif.

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