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Messages - wild.bill

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For using the air pump I have an adapter that connects down to a 1/4" ID hose and that is more than enough to blow the smoke and ash away. I have the outlet of air about 1/2" from the cutting spot. And YES with that small pump I can see a large difference in the cuts when it is on. Also make sure the input to the pump is not blocked because it can limit air flow.

For the other fan some are taking about here is a picture of the fan I use on the diode system. It puts less air pressure on the cutting spot but is all I have ever used with the 2 watt diode system. We have all gone through lots of trial and error to get the results we want and LOTS of thing have been thrown in the trash before anyone could see them.

As Zax said the CO2/K40 systems are not plug and play. I have now rewired most of mine just to make it safe to use and make sure it does not burn itself up.

Custom Size Frames / Re: OpenBuilds ACRO Laser System
« on: October 21, 2017, 05:43:57 PM »
It's been a while since I last posted and figured it was time for an update.

I built the machine as designed and think its a good design. Things like keeping the motors on the bottom of the gantry's keeps the center of gravity low. It was easy to adjust the tension on the wheels and over all everything moves VERY smoothly - far better than my BangGood based cutter ever worked. I think a lot of it is the OpenBuilds wheels - and I have always liked them. Double bearing with a small washer between the bearings so you can tighten as much as you want and they don't bind up. I built this using motors that I already had on hand and used a CNC Shield on a UNO (I still have a few more unused).

I will go through a series of pictures. First is one of the Y gantry's and you can see the motor on the bottom with a 16 tooth gear on the motor. Where the X beam attaches you can see 2 screws into the 2040 beam and an angle bracket on each side making it very stiff.
Next is the X gantry which is a typical 2 plate design, again the motor is on the lower part. They have a third plate that you attach the laser onto and then bolt that plate onto the gantry. Lots of holes on the mounting plate to match up with most brands of lasers.
The next 3 are start with first light at the start and then complete and the last is the first gray scale. All of these are on Amazon cardboard which is not the best for results but great for testing. But still I like the results.
As usual I can't leave anything alone so I ordered another Z axis and I mounted this directly to the X gantry. I did have to add a few new holes in the gantry to be able to mount it, and then mounted the laser onto the Z the same way my other machine had it mounted. Trying to see where the weak spot for flex would be I wiggled things around and found with enough presses I could see the Z addition twist a very small amount and never saw any movement the in X axis so the frame design is rigid enough for this application. Not rigid enough that I would try to make a CNC machine out of it.

So for "ME" I think this kit is worth the price - yes its not cheap - but it works very well and smooth with no tweaking. When I look at how much I have spent upgrading laser, rails ... on the BangGood system this one actually is cheap so far. I spent far more on the up grades. I knew that I would like it but didn't expect how much I like it. I think my old cutter will only get fired up when I need the larger bed.

Air compressors are quite noisy.

I think that aquarium pump is a little noisey, but it is really quiet compared to my compressor.

That pump will move more than enough air for a diode laser, its the one I use on my CO2 laser.

T2 Software Updates / Re: Updates
« on: October 20, 2017, 04:52:18 AM »
If so its this simple.

 * EEPROM Clear
 * Sets all of the bytes of the EEPROM to 0.
 * Please see eeprom_iteration for a more in depth
 * look at how to traverse the EEPROM.
 * This example code is in the public domain.

#include <EEPROM.h>

void setup() {
  // initialize the LED pin as an output.
  pinMode(13, OUTPUT);
    Iterate through each byte of the EEPROM storage.

    Larger AVR processors have larger EEPROM sizes, E.g:
    - Arduno Duemilanove: 512b EEPROM storage.
    - Arduino Uno:        1kb EEPROM storage.
    - Arduino Mega:       4kb EEPROM storage.

    Rather than hard-coding the length, you should use the pre-provided length function.
    This will make your code portable to all AVR processors.

  for (int i = 0 ; i < EEPROM.length() ; i++) {
    EEPROM.write(i, 0);

  // turn the LED on when we're done
  digitalWrite(13, HIGH);

void loop() {
  /** Empty loop. **/

T2 Software Updates / Re: Updates
« on: October 20, 2017, 04:49:18 AM »

Speaking of that, does anyone have the "blank.hex" that I've heard mentioned?

When you say blank Hex - do you mean one that clears all the eprom? If so I have one
that I use between loads of code in my 3D printers to make sure it uses only the new options.

T2 Engraving / Re: T2Laser and Z Axis
« on: October 15, 2017, 03:26:54 PM »
I have used T2 for multi pass cuts in CNC mode and it works fine. I use it for etching images into clear acrylic.

General Discussion / Re: Problem focusing 1.6W
« on: October 14, 2017, 10:09:28 AM »
it has been quite a while since I last used my 1.6W laser but I do remember that it had a much shorter focal distance than my others.

Custom Size Frames / Re: OpenBuilds ACRO Laser System
« on: October 13, 2017, 09:25:26 AM »

But when you get the vac and air going there is still noise. The big thing is its much cleaner to work with the spindle because you don't have the air from the router blowing dust all over the place.

Custom Size Frames / OpenBuilds ACRO Laser System
« on: October 13, 2017, 08:24:19 AM »
I figured I would start a new thread here with a proper title.

Things changed since the last I talked about this system. I had been keeping my small CNC around for small jobs because it was much quieter than the big CNC with the router but after upgrading the big CNC with the water cooled spindle it is quieter than the small one. So I took the small one apart to take the motors and controller. I decided I did not want to take my working system apart yet so I ended ordering the full kit for the ACRO system and build a whole new system.

I received the kit yesterday and it only took a few hours last night to put it together and it looks like a good design. It went together well and runs very smoothly. I have the motors all mounted and running and will mount the laser next time I have time to work on it.

A few pictures, brackets and wheels, and there is one that shows extra angle brackets to make the X axis mount stiffer which I though was a good idea.

T2 Engraving / Re: I'm nearly at my wit's end.
« on: October 11, 2017, 02:50:18 PM »
I didn't see anything about setting the current on the stepper drives. If to low that will cause skipping as well as the other things mentioned.

T2 Engraving / Re: Eleksmaker and Banggoods?
« on: October 08, 2017, 12:10:21 PM »
That is the file I was using.

Since it was just me I went looking and found an old extension that was replacing the DXF input code. Took it out and now I can open the file.

T2 Engraving / Re: Eleksmaker and Banggoods?
« on: October 08, 2017, 11:24:01 AM »
I probably need to add another add-on because I get this error message when opening the no polyline file.

Usage: [options] SVGfile error: no such option: --auto

T2 Engraving / Re: Eleksmaker and Banggoods?
« on: October 08, 2017, 10:20:30 AM »
I am looking to make sure they work and the acrylic plates will work for that.
If they work and are not stiff enough then I will make some aluminum ones.

I need to learn Fusion360 because I can't open any of the DXF in Inkscape because that is what I need to use the K40 to cut acrylic.

T2 Engraving / Re: Eleksmaker and Banggoods?
« on: October 08, 2017, 08:32:22 AM »
I noticed today that you can buy the complete plate set from OpenBuilds for $25.00
That is not much more than it would cost to buy the raw aluminum. I think I will go
this way to try it out. (ordered)

Watching the build video they have slots for the wheels so you can adjust the tension
while building. Only unknown at this time is to see if there is enough adjustment to use
the Eleksmaker wheels.

I noticed they are using 16 tooth gears rather than 20 tooth found
on most kits. In theory it should give you finer movements.

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