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Messages - Lob0426

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1
General Discussion / Re: Homing switches
« on: October 25, 2018, 01:45:18 AM »
I ran a series of repeat tests with Bencutlaser. I tested with two different A5 sized machines. I would cut a shape then move the axis random distances. Then home and burn again. These were done at engraving power levels and slow speeds I saw excellent repeatability.

I never powered off the steppers or controller and then ran the test again. A dial indicator would be better than just a visual compare. I think that as you switch modes you might introduce "creep". If it stops between poles it will probably stay. If is at a peak between poles from micro-stepping I think it will have to fall forward or back. If it doesn't fall consistently it will creep. With a dial Indicator you will be able to see if it is staying in place or moving after power drops.

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When I installed homing switches I took some time picking the switches. I bought a bag of 20. I then tested each switch for its "feel", travel, overtravel and it's sound. Some had a real crisp click to them and the click sounded like a glass breaking. Some were just plain mushy and traveled a bit they broke over, their audible click was not crisp and clear, closer to a crunch.

All of the switches that did not feel clean had a lot of travel, traveled more than half way before they broke over. They also had a lot of over travel. The crisp switches all broke earlier and had little to no overtravel at all.

A couple times I continued these burns until the shape fell free from the board. I noticed no stepping in the cut edges. Of course that could have been the edges were burned away. But I should have seen a coning effect or something other than the straight up and down sides I saw.

So the quality of the switches has a lot to do with it and then you pick the best. Another help is slowing the "homing feed" to about 350. Homing seek was about 5000.

2
Cutting / Re: Grid and automatic home
« on: May 01, 2018, 10:18:41 AM »
There are dozens posts in the forum about adding homing switches. One of those should help you decide which switches you want and how to wire them up.

They can very accurately, within a thousandth or two, reset position with the right switches and the right speeds.

3
General Discussion / Re: Old iPhone 5 and 6 retired uses?
« on: February 02, 2018, 08:36:36 PM »
The batteries are easy to replace. Test the chargers. With that many you should be able to get at least half working. Then sell them. The 6's still have decent value. The 5's work decently too! Any you cannot get working part out or look for someone buying them for parts for repair!

4
General Discussion / Re: M140 Diode 2 Watt setup ?
« on: January 16, 2018, 05:50:43 PM »
Quite a bit of information in that site, just not easy to find it!

5
General Discussion / Re: M140 Diode 2 Watt setup ?
« on: January 15, 2018, 06:39:56 PM »
If you are seeing that low it could be a lens problem. It could be that it is a 1.8W M140 instead of 2W. They show some of the tested outputs of 2W M140's using a G2 lens.
https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/diodes/445-m140-didoes

same tests with 1.8 W M140's
https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/diodes/445nm-h1650-diodes

6
General Discussion / Re: howto fix laser diode
« on: November 28, 2017, 11:37:25 PM »
Yeah I know. It still is not meant to fill large gaps. It is meant to attach the heat sink to the component. Heat sink compound is only meant to fill air gaps for the best contact. Heat sink compound is more efficient but has no real hold.

It was most likely a 3.8mm and the 2W is a 5.6mm. The diode "base" is pressed into a countersunk socket. It connects on most of the face and around the circumference.

Could the epoxy work? Maybe. But it would not be as efficient as real metal to metal contact. So diode life might be reduced. The best is to press it in using heat sink compound to guarantee the best conduction.

7
General Discussion / Re: howto fix laser diode
« on: November 28, 2017, 07:32:09 PM »
Even with the heat conducting epoxy you need metal to metal contact to protect the diode. Metal to metal is always the best conductor! heat sink compounds and epoxy are good for filling in any gaps or attaching.

8
General Discussion / Re: howto fix laser diode
« on: November 27, 2017, 08:41:13 PM »
I got some from DTRLaser and some from Ebay!

https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/
http://www.ebay.com/bhp/laser-diode

I have like 3 2W M140 diodes here! from Ebay.
upgraded the stock 500mw benbox laser module to 2W. Using a DTR Laser driver.

That is here:
http://benboxlaser.us/index.php/topic,782.0.html

As you will see it had a non-standard host module. Most of the earlier ones had this screw in 20mm host!

9
General Discussion / Re: howto fix laser diode
« on: November 27, 2017, 05:11:09 PM »
That adapter is a really small ring and counter sunk to accept the smaller diode. I could have made one, but for the price of the modules it's just not worth the time! For me I just had to remove the adapter to go to a bigger diode. Unfortunately I damaged the adapter getting it out.

Good luck!

11
Being that it is a STM32 controller you cannot use any of the grbl firmwares that are used on the Arduino controlled boards. I suspect that the grbl version is older than what is now available. It looks like possibly grbl 0.8. So that might be part of the continuous burn thing. Just not sure as I have not played with the STM32. You may be able to find a setting that cures that through your LCD.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5DBtbAYmfEE
https://github.com/Meekdai/STM32-GRBL

12
That makes sense for it to be a STM32. The 328's are maxed out storage wise. The STM has plenty of room. If it was Atmel it would most likely be two controllers. One to run the laser controller and another to read the SD and control the LCD.

13
The actual controller chip is only like 6 or 7mm square for the SMD version in size if it is a 328p Arduino. I suspect that is what it is. It even could be under the LCD.

14
General Discussion / Re: howto fix laser diode
« on: November 26, 2017, 11:55:23 AM »
The 12mm housing acts as part of the heat sink. The most common sizes are 3.8mm, 5.6mm and 9mm. If it cannot transfer the heat it will burn up.

https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/diode-modules

The stock laser 500mw laser module I had had a brass adapter from 3.8 to 5.6mm. I have never seen those for sale. You can get the laser host modules in all these sizes on Ebay and Amazon. They are not expensive. Get one that is the proper size and try to get a copper, rather than brass if you can. Not real important for only 2W.

15
It is a regulator for the low laser then. The older benbox boards had them, but they were manually adjusted. The Laser drivers look very similar. Yeah, might be best to leave it alone unless there is reason to mess with it.

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