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Messages - Lob0426

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Z Axis / Re: Controlling Z axis
« on: April 25, 2017, 05:26:26 PM »
That tells me there is not enough backlash to cause your laser focus problems. I am sure there is some if measured. If it isn't enough to cause a problem, all the better.

Z Axis / Re: Controlling Z axis
« on: April 25, 2017, 11:25:48 AM »
Backlash is the movement arising between parts in a mechanism. As you raise and lower the Z axis the looseness between threaded rod and nut and their mounts. The backlash in a coarse thread versus a fine thread is less.

The weight of the assembly will help you reduce backlash. But you will still see some. One strategy for fighting backlash is to always move in one direction. By moving in one direction you have taken out the backlash. This means that if you have to move in the other direction, then you have move farther than needed and come back. So once you start, always move down. You should add some marks, if it does not have some, to your assembly to tell you movement in millimeters or inches to give you a reference.

You can measure the backlash with a dial indicator. By adopting the proper methods you can use that piece reasonably accurately!

Engraving / Re: Marking toast
« on: April 25, 2017, 01:16:15 AM »
There is a 3D pancake printer.

I do not see why you could not "toast" a design into a piece of toast. I would lightly toast it first, then use the laser to darken it in a design. Otherwise you will have it soft on one side and some crunchy on the other. You probably want to find a dense, heavy bread to get the best detail.

You probably could use it on pancakes too!

I wonder if you could cut a pattern in the bread then fill the pattern with egg or jelly or some such? Probably need a thin sliced bread for this!

Sorry I have not got back to this yet. I have been getting ready for Flitefest West in Vallejo CA. It will probably be next week, then I can get it connected to a Laser kit and give it areal test.

I was going to assemble an R/C plane today, but the travel trailer toilet decided to spray water instead, thankfully fresh water. The valve did not get cleared of water and froze this winter. Luckily we found one in stock in town. Still was a 3 hour repair. Everything else is working so far.

If you have ever tried to fix anything, in a camper or trailer, you know that it is always just barely possible to get, it done if you lay upside down with your legs up the wall and your head bent backwards.

Trouble Shooting / Re: Epic Fail!
« on: April 21, 2017, 09:23:57 PM »
I don't think TSA would let it on the plane. Probably in checked baggage. Of course you might as well pack it as a kit as they will do their best to convert it back to kit form! And FOR THE LOVE OF GOD do not put FRAGILE on the box. That makes them go to extra effort, then they play soccer with it at every loading!


Cutting / Re: 3dcarving with our lplasers
« on: April 21, 2017, 05:47:56 PM »
The diodes lasers would probably be capable of this with a Z axis. Several people are working on a movable Z axis for our machines.

Projects / Grbl 1.1f appears to be working on Mini-Mega2560 with BCL
« on: April 19, 2017, 08:42:45 PM »
Months ago I was playing with a Mini-Mega Adapter;
I built an adapter board that plugs into an Arduino Nano connector. The Idea was to add the extra memory and storage from the Mega2560 to the L7 style boards that were on the Laser kits. Ran into many problems. Firmware was the main problem as BenCutLaser and T2Laser were using were using grbl based, but not true grbl, firmwares to run their software. Both Ralph and Zax got some things working but, the grbl for Mega was not that mature as yet! The full size Mega worked decently but the mini-mega was not cooperating at all. The most luck was with T2Laser until later updates. The first Mega2560 1.1e was not any better. But Ralph and Zax have put a lot more time into their software and it appears to be paying off for my project!

Today I tried grbl-master-mega-edge (I believe it is 1.1f) BenCutLaser seems to be working with the Mini-Mega now that Ralph has grbl1.1e for Nano working. And T2Laser ran through also. I will have to do some more testing. Next is actually connecting it too one of the Laser kits and see if it is working in the real world!

Spare Parts Sources / Re: Laser Fan
« on: April 14, 2017, 02:27:52 PM »
Yes I have a connector kit similar to that! JST-XH 2 pin is the right connector. If your fan does not spin then swap wires. They will only run if the polarity is correct.

Trouble Shooting / Re: Epic Fail!
« on: April 13, 2017, 01:57:45 PM »
I had similar happen. It was printing the tenth or so layer and looked good. Made a run to the store about twenty minutes. It had let loose and built up a clump on the extruder just as yours had.

What I have seen is you get a rough spot in the print. The extruder bangs over that spot shaking the print. Eventually it shakes the print loose. The print sticks to the extruder and follows it. The filament builds back onto the extruder and sticks.

Al I had to do was heat the extruder and pull the mess off. I had to order a insulating sock for the extruder as it was filled with plastic. Cost me about $10.

The lesson here is that you just cannot leave these 3D printers on their own. They are like a kid, they only behave when they are being watched. The same with our other CNC based hobbies, like Lasers and mills and lathes. They have to be under supervision in case something goes wrong!

Assembly / Re: Prusa I3 Mk2s
« on: April 10, 2017, 10:51:59 AM »
My start was on Apple2 at the college when I was about 14. Summer classes. First personal computer was a Timex Sinclair kit, me and my brother assembled. The local college still does not have any courses for CNC except a couple in the gun smithing course for a CNC lathe.

CNC was not widely available in my 20's either. Most do not understand that 3D printers are CNC "devices", as are these Lasers! Except for the M codes most other "gcode" are very similar. I say similar as some gcode is not standard from all product manufacturers.

This stuff does come in handy when you cannot find just the right part you want. The 3D printers are the easiest of all to get from concept to finished part. The mill and lathe are not as easy due to two factors 1. Software for "CNC" is heavily "monetized" and 2. You have to learn to deal with differences in materials. Actually there is the whole learning to be a machinist also.

General Discussion / Re: Home Switch Brackets for our machines
« on: April 09, 2017, 10:58:55 PM »
I had trouble with the Y cables also. I found that you put the cable into the plastic channel keepers then push them into the rail. Start at one end and work along it. Then it is perfectly flat and works like it is supposed to.

If you put the cable into the rail channel first then try to push the plastic channel keeper in it does not go all the way in or stay in.

General Discussion / Re: Home Switch Brackets for our machines
« on: April 09, 2017, 10:50:20 PM »
A5 size. Dang fingers don't behave sometimes! LOL

Assembly / Re: Prusa I3 Mk2s
« on: April 09, 2017, 10:43:46 PM »
He does not have all of them.
2 3D printers, a Printrbot Play and a Printrbot Simple Metal with heated bed. Integrated a Tablet onto the Play.
Sherline CNC 17" Lathe and Desktop CNC Mill.
2 A5 Laser kits.

Wish I had all of this when I was 20!

Assembly / Re: Prusa I3 Mk2s
« on: April 09, 2017, 07:43:45 PM »
You are truly addicted to thermoplastics!

Trouble Shooting / Re: Weak Laser not working anymore
« on: April 09, 2017, 07:40:49 PM »
I think if I was going to go wireless I would use a host board like a Raspberry Pi or a Beagle Bone. Transfer the file to that and then run it! This worked pretty well on my 3D printers using Octopi. This worked with pretty decent sized gcode files.

Agastar tried a Bluetooth board with the Nano and, if I remember correctly, was not impressed. It increased the load on the Nano and caused some problems! So a faster board would be needed. I think he may have tried it on a Mega2560 also.

The Uno works fine and has about .5K storage advantage.

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