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General Questions / Re: Unknown board
« on: August 19, 2017, 09:57:37 AM »
@jorgan202 -- is it feasible to consider purchasing a 'known' controller board? You might be fighting an up hill battle!

T2 Engraving / Re: Laser engraving into acrylic
« on: August 17, 2017, 03:34:01 PM »
I burn on 1/4 inch thick acrylic also. I peel off the sticky brown paper however. I lay my acrylic plate on top of a white 8.5 x 11 sheet of paper. My focus point is the bottom of the acrylic plate. Using BCL, I mirror the text image to do the burn. When finished, I pop the plate into an LED lit stand and it looks outstanding.

BenCutLaser / Re: Image Engraving Status (INFO)
« on: August 17, 2017, 11:22:07 AM »
Grayscale engraving attached.

BenCutLaser / Re: Image Engraving Status (INFO)
« on: August 17, 2017, 10:00:34 AM »
Paul made some g-code performance enhancements to engraving images that reduces the final burn times by about 33%. I'm testing this new code now. It will be in the next beta release.

BenCutLaser / Re: Engraving Beta Test Thread (OPEN)
« on: August 16, 2017, 11:05:13 AM »
Post the original size please.

BenCutLaser / Re: Engraving Beta Test Thread (OPEN)
« on: August 16, 2017, 09:54:43 AM »
GS should not matter. The dpi is 96 and that's OK. The size is pretty small, maybe that's the problem with it. You can't really increase the size (zoom) and keep the definition you have, which is poor to begin with.

Is there another bike photo that would work for you? Something around 600 x 400 that can be scaled down inside BCL?

BTW I squeezed the links together more vertically in the hopes this would help you some. See attachment.

BenCutLaser / Re: Engraving Beta Test Thread (OPEN)
« on: August 16, 2017, 08:45:35 AM »
The image is not sharp and has no definition to it. Can you improve it at all?

You want some sharpness and definition to an image, such as the example I have attached.

BenCutLaser / Re: Engraving Beta Test Thread (OPEN)
« on: August 16, 2017, 08:36:11 AM »
That seems odd as my screen resolution is the same: 1920 x 1080 and I don't see the same cut off issue as you do. See attachment.

I'll bet 1920 x 1080 is the highest resolution that you can set, right?

Thanks for the bike image, I'll see what I can do with it.

BenCutLaser / Re: Engraving Beta Test Thread (OPEN)
« on: August 16, 2017, 06:54:07 AM »
I'll have a look at the Toolpath Operations window's text drops down into the toolpath list issue.
What is your screen resolution?

>for text, some justification options would be nice.
You have that now. Check the Text Settings window. See attachment.

>a 14" screen the text for the menus etc is a little small.
Yes, unfortunately, there is a lot of information to display and a 14 inch screen is a challenge. I need to know your screen size and I'll what I can do.

>is there any way to maximize darkness and minimize material loss?
I don't think there is. To get dark shades, you have to burn into the wood. The darker the shade the deeper the burn. There is some degree of a balancing act yes, as I've backed off on the shade of dark to lessen the depth of the burn. I've settled for a lighter shade of black vs pure black.

My comments on your pattern:

1. You could go a little darker I think.

2. You could go a little lighter as well.

Regarding your test image:

What direction is your laser tool calibrated for: Up/down, left/right or 45 degrees?

It looks looks like the burn with the text was done left/right? If so, that's the last option to use really. Up/down (against the grain) is my first choice and 45 is my second choice. Be sure and create a laser tool for each one. Don't use the same tool to do both need a dedicated tool for each burn direction you calibrate your laser tool for.

Post your image as I'd like to try engraving it and see what kind of detail I can get from it.

General Discussion / Re: Finally got it together
« on: August 15, 2017, 09:54:50 AM »
Yes, those temps are OK...actually lower than what I used to run. My extruder head I ran at 220 and the bed 80.

See attachment re software that gives you a time estimate of your job.

General Discussion / Re: Finally got it together
« on: August 15, 2017, 08:16:06 AM »
You need amps to heat the bed. That's the biggest electrical draw on a 3D printer. You can try your 20 amp PS and see if your bed gets hot enough. It might work OK. If not, you'll have to opt for a 30 amp PS.

Warning: often visually check the wiring coming out of your power supply going to your printer connection terminals. Make sure they do not look like they are burning the wires up. I would visually check the wiring weekly.

BenCutLaser / Re: Machine always moves with the laser ON (CLOSED)
« on: August 15, 2017, 07:34:40 AM »
Marked as Closed. No response from OP for two weeks.

General Discussion / Re: Finally got it together
« on: August 14, 2017, 01:15:45 PM »
I don't think the glass comes with a kit. I bought my glass on Amazon for $12.00.

The video assembly for the hot bed looks fine to me. The whole bed gets hot so it really doesn't matter which side is up or down.

If you decide to go with a glass plate, just lay it on top of your hot bed (you won't need the tape so remove it) and clamp it down at the four corners.

About every 6 to 8 jobs, you'll have to spray window on the glass and wipe it clean with a paper towel. Heat up the bed and do the hair spray again, about 4 or 5 coats, waiting for each coat to dry. Won't take long to dry with a hot bed. Maybe 10 seconds. I completely remove my glass plate for cleaning but you don't have to.

General Discussion / Re: Finally got it together
« on: August 14, 2017, 09:32:23 AM »
Aluminum is the Y axis bed mount. You must have the hot bed on top of that, right? See my attachment showing my Aluminum mount, then the hot bed unit itself and then the glass on top of the hot bed.

General Discussion / Re: Finally got it together
« on: August 14, 2017, 06:28:07 AM »
>is it necessary to use tape when printing?

No. Spray about 4 coats of hair spray (Aqua Net works fine and is cheap) onto the glass on top of the hot bed (turn on the heat to the bed and let it get hot first). Let it dry between coats. With a hot bed the coats will dry very fast. Hair spray will hold your PLA very well.

What is the amp rating of your PS? They make 15 amps and 30 amps. If it came with 15 amps I'd replace it with a 30 amp PS. They are relatively inexpensive and you'll need the extra power if you have a hot bed. I don't believe 15 amps is enough for a 3D printer with a hot bed.

You'll learn this from experience but choose a PLA color that you can see how it lays down on the first layer which is the most important layer. If you don't get that first layer right, the print will be bad. If you get it to lay down right, you'll have a good print.

How close the PLA nozzle is to the bed determines how good your first layer lays down. I use a 3x5 inch index card to determine the distance when I do my bed leveling exercise. I want the distance such that I can move the index card between the nozzle and the bed and feel a little resistance as I move the card between the bed and nozzle. So you'll end up with a distance between your bed and nozzle about the thickness of an index card.

The PLA will come out and lay down on the glass 'smashed' a little bit. You'll learn what that should look like and orange (in my opinion) is the easiest to see the right amount of thickness of that first layer. Green and yellow also work good to visually see how that first layer is laid down. Depends on your bed color so you want a PLA color with constrast. Black PLA on a black bed won't work as you can't see the thickness. Red PLA on a red bed the same.

Attached are two pictures of what the first layer must look like. You can see it looks a little transparent and it's 'squished' down onto the glass pretty good. Study these pictures carefully. That's the first layer look you want.

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