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Messages - wild.bill

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General Discussion / Re: $2000 Budget - help me choose a CO2 Laser.
« on: October 01, 2018, 03:31:55 PM »
There is no agreement on what the max temp should be. The doc's that came with my laser says keep it below 25c but there are a lot of people that say less than that. I try to keep mine between 18c and 20c.

General Discussion / Re: $2000 Budget - help me choose a CO2 Laser.
« on: October 01, 2018, 09:32:23 AM »
I have a PC cooling fan radiator in line where the water comes out of the laser which does the same as the 3000 for far less money.

Some things I have/do for safety of the tube, I have a digital thermometer measuring the water temp at the pump where the water is picked up and the head is mounted so I can see it all the time (I never leave the machine while its running). This machine has a pause button so you can always stop a job for a while and continue later. I actually use the pause more than expected, because of power consumption I can run the laser and compressor at the same time (I have a big compressor for the whole shop) so I pause the laser, run the compressor to build pressure up, and then continue the job.
So if I am watching the temp and it starts to get high I can pause, go get an ice bottle and put in the tank, wait for it to cool down and then continue the job so I never risk the tube and never leave the machine.

Also if you are going to get a machine like this you SHOULD watch these videos

General Discussion / Re: $2000 Budget - help me choose a CO2 Laser.
« on: October 01, 2018, 08:36:57 AM »
For the cooler I took a different approach, I use a 10 gal fish tank. I keep the machine in the basement of the house so in the winter its cool enough with just the tank. In the summer time I have 1 gal mike bottles with frozen water that I put into the tank to keep the water cool. For the work I do the cut's are quick and I don't do many at a time so the water does not heat up much, and if I am doing etching it takes longer but the power level on the laser is very low so it does not generate much heat and can run several hours with no problem. It was a cheap way to start and after watching the temp's never got a proper cooler.

General Discussion / Re: $2000 Budget - help me choose a CO2 Laser.
« on: October 01, 2018, 08:20:51 AM »
The second window is the revised design. The  RED shown is the older design, if to look you can see the buttons for the motors. I didn't think there were any of the older design left in the country. The new design is available in red as well as yellow.

General Discussion / Re: $2000 Budget - help me choose a CO2 Laser.
« on: October 01, 2018, 08:14:05 AM »
the yellow machine is the same as the red one. On the side there are three connectors, USB for the computer, USB for a memory stick, and ethernet (which is often not connected to the controller).

General Discussion / Re: $2000 Budget - help me choose a CO2 Laser.
« on: September 30, 2018, 12:09:32 PM »
The laser you have the point to is a RedSail clone and is not a bad machine. I have the previous version of this machine. It is a single tube machine and the version shown does not have power Z axis - but does have a manually adjusted Z axis. Mine does have the power Z axis but don't let the add's mislead you. The power Z has up/down buttons and is not connected to the controller so the difference is pushing a button vs twisting a knob.

I have found the construction of this machine MUCH better than my K40. The thing to look at carefully is the delivery costs. All the vendors are a little different but most charge extra for home delivery without a loading dock (the delivery truck needs a lift gate).

T2 Engraving / Re: Compatible Lasers
« on: September 06, 2018, 10:48:55 AM »
I put a Cohesion3D board in my K40 and you can use T2Laser with that board.

I use this board with one of my diode laser (OpenBuilds ACRO) systems as well.

General Discussion / Re: Co2 40, 50, 60w lasers
« on: August 31, 2018, 11:35:42 AM »
What I would say about CO2 Lasers is to think about what you want to use if for. My K40 which has a tube that is really about 30W does a much better job engraving then my 80W laser does, but the 80W does a much better job cutting. It will cut 1/4" MDF with no problems.

My 80W is a real 80W single tube system that I have measured a peak power of 89W. The limitation is that the tube will not fire at low powers.

General Questions / Re: upgrading my laser
« on: August 28, 2018, 05:56:27 PM »
Software has nothing to do with it point. It's not PWM that is the issue - its that you can only drive a 5 volt signal - thus you must use a TTL laser, and I have not seen a TTL laser that didn't support PWM.

Having cap's on the new board won't stop the old design from working. Very few diode laser user actually use the end stops and if they do they can do what i did and that is put cap's and 4.7K resistors at the switches along with shielded twisted pair wiring which is actually the better solution to the noise problem. You never want un-terminated stubs which acts like an antenna feeding signals to a controller of any type.

Like I said I used the clone for several years with no problems and had a real one that didn't work any better.

So the point is if someone wanted to use the clone it will work.

General Questions / Re: upgrading my laser
« on: August 28, 2018, 04:17:07 PM »
I have not said anything here for a long time, but the thing to remember with that shield is there is no Mosfet so it will only work with TTL/PWM lasers.

The second thing is with the older clone/copies the only thing that is different is the pin location and labeling of D11 & D12, and if you understand how to hook it up it will work fine. I used a clone for several years with X, Y, &Z with homing switches prior to going to a Cohesion board.

What Can Be Cut? / Re: Materials that I can cut
« on: May 28, 2018, 02:43:10 PM »
As I said in the other thread its for the CNC and that machine is nice enough to share its air supply.

What Can Be Cut? / Re: Materials that I can cut
« on: May 28, 2018, 01:20:21 PM »
I  still like mine, I get the tank up to 150lbs and then turn the power off. It can run for a very long time without needing a refill. On the output is a pressure regulator, water trap and a flow regulator. I actually have a pile of compressors and this is the only one that I can say I like.,3223.msg36301.html#msg36301

General Discussion / Re: Laser firing up at startup
« on: May 24, 2018, 06:02:19 AM »
Some of us like troll's

General Discussion / Re: Testing Printer
« on: May 20, 2018, 07:23:29 AM »
To find anything about how they work you need to look at the marlin firmware.

If you are good with software you can change the marlin firmware and customize the interface.

General Discussion / Re: Testing Printer
« on: May 19, 2018, 07:45:56 AM »
99% of the time its not the LCD board that is the problem, its the cabling. That controller and the LCD are used on many different printers and the forums for the printers are full of people having problems with the LCD.

Make sure its 1 to 1 and 2 to 2 and try adjusting the brightness control. If that still doesn't work there are many that have connectors with the key's wrong so try reversing the connectors - which may require cutting the key's off.

Also if it is a bad LCD its very common and you can get them from lots of places and they are cheap. I know that I have at least one spare if not more. Last the printer works just fine only using the USB port - so the LCD is not really required. My i3 didn't have one and I added it as an option.

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