Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Lob0426

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 87
Custom Size Frames / Re: SiXYLaser
« on: October 09, 2017, 05:27:28 PM »
There are cork and rubber stepper mounts that reduce vibration. Those would help some. I have a set of cork here that I keep forgetting to install in my 3D printer. The metal/rubber/metal ones look like a better solution but are more expensive.

If you haven't yet, install some rubber feet under you MDF. I would say about 12 of them. That will help reduce sound and vibration also. It really help on my mill that is mounted on a 1 1/4" wooden base.

Assembly Help / Re: Wiring home switches
« on: October 07, 2017, 03:17:47 PM »
All limits are "hard limits" that create an alarm. If a switch is tripped without the $H homing command it is treated as a limit. You can use the same switch for homing and a hard limit.

Just to repeat; All limits are treated as alarms, this stops movement on all steppers and the spindle, in our case it turns off the laser. Soft limits do this also. Then you have to cancel the alarm after fixing what caused the alarm.

General Discussion / Re: Could an A3 machine become a 3D Printer?
« on: September 29, 2017, 12:56:47 PM »
For a large heated go 24V, use a MIC6 plate extra thick. The heated plate does not have to be exactly the bed size. Just make sure you have enough thermal mass to sustain the temperature.

General Discussion / Re: Could an A3 machine become a 3D Printer?
« on: September 29, 2017, 10:18:19 AM »
Printrbot made a similar design called the "Big E".

It was for real large prints. It used extruded rails similar to these Laser engravers. So the concept is sound. Their rails were attached to a work surface to add rigidity. The vertical gantry was vertical extruded rails if I remember correctly. The biggest change is the controller board and the RAMPS 1.4 board should work well. Use larger diameter wiring wherever possible, like to the extruder or heated bed due to higher resistance from extended wire lengths.

Using a rising bed might just be better for a 12 X 12 bed size. Big E was for really big 3D projects.

BenCutLaser / Re: Home Switches
« on: September 26, 2017, 07:46:49 PM »
As far as I know, the Arduino retains the firmware when powered off.
The firmware remains in the flash memory of the processor when powered off. You can compile a change in the firmware and save the new version to the flash memory. The firmware settings that you set for maximum speed, homing on or off, work area size etc.. is in separate storage, EEPROM these are also saved when powered down.

Once you "burn" the new firmware with changes it will stay there until you change it again.

BenCutLaser / Re: Home Switches
« on: September 26, 2017, 12:39:36 PM »
Hey Lob0426,

thx so much for the info....I am new to lasers and love the build and just taking my set it up nice and also safe

just setting up the A5 w Z axis.....and wondering how I go about getting a re-setable focus when changing to different height 'object' that would be cut or engraved.

if there is no 'Z limit' in the BCL version of GRBL 1.1, I wonder would you know if the 'probe' or 'stop / resume' are enabled on BCL??

was hoping to use a depth gauge setup w switch attached to probe the 'object' at my set height.....say my gauge is set at 45mm high...I can hit home or probe or something and it Z-axis lowers but stops when object hits the switch.....maybe i can use the 'stop' pin on my EleksMaker Mana 3 stop the Z-axis.....

just ideas anyway...will have a play and poke around....thx again


There is a Z limit available in the grbl firmware. You will have to change the code, not real hard, and then compile your own version. There are a number of threads here on limit switches and the firmware.

There is a "probe" available also I think it is on pin A5.

You can set limits switches and or homing switches. You can set them on different pins. You can set them to run sequentially or simultaneously.

D9, D10 and D12 are about all you have to work with if you are planning a Z axis.

So if you want to use limits and homing you will have to share pins on axis to do it. Example your X homing is on D9 your X limit will be on D9 also. You can use a single pin for homing all axis but then you have to home sequentially.

You cannot use homing on a single pin simultaneously. If more than one switch is triggered simultaneously it will only register that one switch. And it will not know which axis triggered. Homing is more involved as it moves to trigger, then pulls off then then moves slower to be triggered again for accuracy.

Your limits could be on a separate pin like D10 the problem with that is if two or more limits are hit at exactly the same time only one will be registered. This will work because "limits" are handled as alarm events and stop all operations.

BenCutLaser / Re: Home Switches
« on: September 25, 2017, 11:11:12 PM »
If you are using the GRBL 1.1 it will be D9, D10, D12. D11 and D12 were swapped to get PWM for the Laser. I do not know what the default "home switch" setting is in the BCL version anymore. It used to be X and Y both on pin D9 with each axis homing in sequence. Meaning X axis homes then Y axis homes. They did not have homing set for Z last I knew!

General Discussion / Re: New A3 with screen and sd slot
« on: September 24, 2017, 05:40:13 PM »
Can you decode that a little for me it sounded like a good thing?

The Nano board is pretty strapped for storage space with most firmware. It only has 32kb flash. I am guessing that they are using a more advance controller processor.

General Discussion / Re: New A3 with screen and sd slot
« on: September 24, 2017, 12:24:14 PM »
It is a LCD controller board plus a laser controller. But I have only seen these on more powerful controllers like the RAMPS, Prusa i3, Printerbot and a few other 3D printers. So that laser controller is likely more than a Nano based controller.

General Discussion / Re: New A3 with screen and sd slot
« on: September 23, 2017, 11:04:14 PM »
Need T2 for Linux that works on a Raspberry Pi 3 with the touchscreen!

Full Wifi, Bluetooth enabled Laser............

Ok I woke up!

Depends on how much ability the system has to access files on the SD card. If you can save a file to access later, or does it only run the last file put on the card? Since it has that joystick it probably can access multiple files. Wonder what it uses for a processor and firmware?

General Discussion / Re: Prussa I3 Mk3
« on: September 23, 2017, 07:46:13 PM »
Removable bed and filament monitoring.

I think I could modify my Printrbot simple to the removable bed sheet thing. But not the Play model. Have to look into it.

Mini CNC / Finally made some chips!
« on: September 23, 2017, 07:35:16 PM »
Well after almost 2 years not using my equipment as CNC I have been trying to get back to it!

Last week looked at some of my old gcode. Might as well have been in greek! So I sat down and look it over until it started making sense again. I have used the machines manually for some small repair stuff, but have not used it CNC.

I decided to build the "Millie Steam engine" project in the back of Joe Martins "Tabletop Machining" Book. The only stock I had on hand for the flywheel and crank wheels is some 1018 steel bar .75" X 1" x 7". I decided to mill a cylinder for the wheels from that bar on the CNC mill. Then finish them in the lathe.

I used an edge finder and centered up my bar, center drilled it, then drilled the 1/8" hole through. Then tried to tackle the gcode to cut the cylinder from the bar stock.

And of course just as I had the code edited the computer froze up. Rebooted appeared to be working and edited code again. froze up and would not save again, frozen. Tried to boot it again and it said I had to choose a different boot drive, Great!

Had to dig it out of it's hole and pull the side panel. No loose cables that I could find. Nothing obvious, just some dust and not really much of that. This computer maybe has 100 hours on it total, no reason for it to be acting up! Used an air can and blew it out! It booted. Edited and saved the code no problem, I guess third time is the charm!

Ran the code in simulation and found some errors, fixed them, tried running the code as a flyover (running the code with the bit well over the work) to make sure it is starting in the right place and speeds and such appear right. Had to change the start point of the "arc" as it was not cutting arond 0,0 but to the high right. More head scratching. Got everything right finally.

Finally started cutting. realized the "cylinder" did not appear large enough. It wasn't it was .625" not .8". I let it finish cutting down to .35" (I can use this piece for the crank wheel) and then stopped it recalculated the tool path by hand (should have let tool compensation do it). Reset to zero and started cutting a larger circle over the current cut. Made it back down to .35". At .38" the mill bit decided to come loose (an idiot must have not tightened it enough!) and it knocked the vice out of position. Emergency stop and look everything over!

Overall, not my day! But starting to remember the basics and made some chips. I want to check the tram of the machine before I try again. It was not a hard bang and nothing got trapped, but might as well check it to be sure! Should be ready for another try soon!

Trouble Shooting / Re: New diode for elekslaser A3
« on: September 20, 2017, 12:06:37 AM »
why did you murder that laser

It literally became a shadow of itself. I had to send it to the great diode beyond!

(it would only make a light blue beam that could not warm wood.)

It was only 500mw anyway. So when it's life force dimmed, I suspect the driver was bad, I destroyed the original diode trying to get it out. It now has a M140 2W diode and a 1.8A SuperX driver from DTR Laser shop.

The M140 has a nice narrow tight beam.

As others will attest to, these modules will give you a real good fight, if you are determined to upgrade them. Lots of soaking with finger nail polish remover.

The host is a 20mm Aluminum so you really cannot put a very powerful diode in them. The stock 2.5W is probably close to the upper end of diode for that host. The 5.5W uses a 20mm brass host. My 3W has a copper 12mm host from DTR Laser in a chicom Aluminum heat sink, from EBAY, plus heat sink compound. It runs cool on long runs.

So not a murder so much as a mercy killing!

Trouble Shooting / Re: New diode for elekslaser A3
« on: September 19, 2017, 07:58:50 PM »
We need to clarify this some.

Just so others who read this do not get confused. You all obviously know what he is talking about. But others might not.

What he is asking about is a "Laser Module".

I have a picture below.

General Discussion / Re: Does the smoke effect the burn?
« on: September 19, 2017, 07:41:33 PM »
The smoke refracts a percentage of the beam. I could see when a track of smoke crossed the beam. A properly placed fan keeps the smoke out of the Laser beam for a more consistent burn.

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 87