Author Topic: Slow customer service  (Read 738 times)

wild.bill

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Re: Slow customer service
« Reply #15 on: March 22, 2017, 04:43:44 AM »
Well, I ordered the XT60's and some brass connectors but the brass connectors are too big of a diameter to fit the 4 pins coming out of the RAMPS board.

I don't think the XT60's will work either as one doesn't fit the two pins very solidly and then, as the attachment shows, leaves no room for the other XT60.

So, I'm still puzzled how I'm going to make this work.

I use 16g wire to make a smalll pigtail. Solder one end into the board and the other into the XT60.
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Re: Slow customer service
« Reply #16 on: March 22, 2017, 03:30:56 PM »
Is there a metal pin that I can pressure slide onto each of these 4 pins and then solder the wire to? I'd like to find a cleaner and easier solution to this, not only for myself, but for others who maybe cannot solder the wires directly to the pins.
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wild.bill

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Re: Slow customer service
« Reply #17 on: March 22, 2017, 04:34:28 PM »
Is there a metal pin that I can pressure slide onto each of these 4 pins and then solder the wire to? I'd like to find a cleaner and easier solution to this, not only for myself, but for others who maybe cannot solder the wires directly to the pins.

I don't know of anything that will work with those pin's.

Lets talk about what the real problem is and some possible solutions. The ramp's board is very popular with 3D printers but the current printer designs are pushing its limits. The power connector is only rated for 20 amps which is what many of today's hot bed's draw. Also the Mosfet design on the board for the hot bed doesn't really do well at 20 amps so the best thing to do is remove the load from the ramps board using and external device to control the power to the bed.

A lot of people are using SSR's and for a 20 amp load you really should use nothing less than a 40 amp SSR, I have melted a 25 amp one. Another solution is to use an external Mosfet and you can drive its input with the existing hot bed connection. I like the TriGorilla Mosfet - https://www.amazon.com/Additive-Manufacturing-Products-TriGorilla-Industrial-Scientific/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=n%3A6066126011%2Cp_6%3AAVCH3LIOAKMIT

There is a third option and that is to use a relay - and this is what I am using on my printers. From my local auto store I got some driving light relays that are rated for 50 amp.
The down side of the relay is you can't use PWM on the hot bed but my view is that the normal 12 volt hotbed is so slow heating I don't want PWM. Like the others I drive the coil of the relay with the leads that would normally go the hot bed.

Attached is an example of how these get wired, and with the SSR and Mosfet it can be done without soldering because the devices have screw terminals.

By doing any of these the current load on the ramps board is so low the connectors they use have no issue.
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Re: Slow customer service
« Reply #18 on: March 22, 2017, 04:56:16 PM »
Thanks for that information Bill.

My 4 burnt wires are coming from my power supply. My heated bed wires are fine. I have four wires coming off of my power supply that feed into that Green Plastic connector with the four pins and all four wires were really burned up (see photo again).

My FolgerTech power supply is rated at 30 amps, not the usual 20 amps. Should I replace it with a 20 amp power supply? Is that the problem?
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wild.bill

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Re: Slow customer service
« Reply #19 on: March 22, 2017, 05:19:28 PM »
The power supply is fine and those connectors usually fail on the power supply side.

Something on that side of the connector creates some resistance which leads to heat which melts the connector. From the 3D printer groups some of the connectors have lasted for years and for some people they last less than a week.
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wild.bill

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Re: Slow customer service
« Reply #20 on: March 22, 2017, 06:29:11 PM »
Another thought Ralph, what temp do you usually set your bed temp at and does it get there fast enough?

My thoughts - in marlin you can change BANG_MAX for the hot bed and dripping it should reduce the average current draw. Side effect is it will take longer to get up to temp.

#define PIDTEMP
#define BANG_MAX 255 // limits current to nozzle while in bang-bang
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Re: Slow customer service
« Reply #21 on: March 22, 2017, 08:02:15 PM »
My bed is set to heat up to 80 C initially then when the job starts, after 60 seconds, it slowly drops down to 60 C. The initial heat up is very slow...taking maybe about 8 mins to reach 100 C. The extruder heats up faster, maybe getting to its temp in 4 or 5 mins.
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