Author Topic: Laser engraving metal  (Read 2139 times)

Stonemull

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Re: Laser engraving metal
« Reply #15 on: July 10, 2017, 06:41:44 PM »
Interesting, that PCB etch film I use could be used to make a much nicer mask so long as you have a surface that it can wrap flat too, also need heat and pressure to attach the stuff.
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sajalkarwal

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Re: Laser engraving metal
« Reply #16 on: May 02, 2018, 05:15:03 AM »
@nothingman82 Hello,
Can you please suggest power and other setting for 2.5watt elkeameker for metal removing paint.

thank you

Elephantman

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Re: Laser engraving metal
« Reply #17 on: May 16, 2018, 05:25:06 PM »
There's a product call thermark, also cermark, but I've not looked further into it as it's not cheap.
appears you spray it on, and the laser affixes the paint, then wash the excess of with water.

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Zax

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Re: Laser engraving metal
« Reply #18 on: May 17, 2018, 04:02:58 AM »
I've used both, they aren't cheap but do work very well. You only need a very thin coating so it goes a long way.

You can also make your own, much cheaper but in my experience the results aren't as good (but it does work).

ggallant571

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Re: Laser engraving metal
« Reply #19 on: May 17, 2018, 06:30:04 AM »
Do you have a link to the make your own? Which laser and power settings?
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ianchia

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Re: Laser engraving metal
« Reply #20 on: May 17, 2018, 02:59:09 PM »
There’s the CRC Dry Moly Lube. Someone on the Elekslaser Facebook group sprayed a thin coat, let it dry and then raster engraved at 100mm/min at 100% power w a 2.5W. Cleaned up with WD40 and it left a permanent black engraving on aluminium. Supposedly works on brass too.

And then there are all the ideas in the post and comments here:
https://hackaday.com/2014/12/25/laser-etch-stainless-with-only-plaster-alcohol/

Zax

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Re: Laser engraving metal
« Reply #21 on: May 18, 2018, 05:36:59 AM »
I've used aerosol dry moly lube, it does work but I prefer the brasso mix.

I have the recipe somewhere, it's brasso metal polish mixed with a solvent (>90% isopropyl alcohol) and gypsum (plaster of paris or clay).

If you want to spray it, use more solvent but I prefer to brush it on so less solvent. The plaster is a binder so it cures as a thin layer, the brasso is the transfer agent for the thermal reaction. This works great on stainless steel.

Note: I just saw the link ianchia posted where they only used plaster, interesting... I've never tried it without the brasso but I also don't apply it thick like they did. I've even sprayed it from my airbrush and you can hardly see it as with the moly lube but it does work.