Will this engraver work with T2Laser ?

[jtice]

I made a post asking for help setting up Benbox with my engraver.
http://benboxlaser.us/index.php/topic,759.0.html

But, the more I look at T2Laser it seems like a much nicer program.
But, before I go trying to set it up, I wanted to see if anyone can confirm if it will work with my engraver,
this is the one I have.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/252399593397?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=551246989492&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Here are a couple pics of mine, and I noticed that mine does not have any jumper under the one controller board, that I read I need to change to make it compatible with PWM.
Does that mean I cant do PWM with this board? or that I cant use T2Laser at all?

[Zax]

99% sure it will but the trial is free and will let you evaluate T2Laser with your system.

The board is a clone of the Eleks Maker so probably hard wired for Grbl 0.9 but you should check under the Nano for a jumper just in case. Then follow my conversion document (link in my signature below) and load the firmware and settings, then you should be good.

[jtice]

Updated my first post with pics, there is no jumper.
What does this mean for me? No PWM? and maybe no T2Laser?

[Zax]

No, that means they suck at reverse engineering and making a clone  but it's already hard wired for 0.9 based on what I've seen from others. T2Laser works with 0.8 (Benbox firmware) or 0.9 Laser Grbl but as you said for laser power control you need 0.9 so you're all set.

[Zax]

It also looks like your motor wires are correct, so make sure the axis isn't binding up. The belts should be snug but not over tight.

If everything seems good but it's not moving, try unplugging one side and see if the gantry moves a few steps then repeat on the other side. It could be your motor current is too low.

[ggallant571]

First, new roller tend to be stiff. Perhaps work some light oil. Make sure they roll smoothly without the belts

Second, it is necessary to set the current limits on the A4998 boards. Turning the pots clockwise increases the current. Going to far goes back to weak. The current on the Y axis needs to about twice the current on the X. Lacking a meter try with the belts disconnected. Polulo robotics has a good tutorial.I have the Y set at 1.0V and the X at 0.6V.

Note: My Chinese clone A4988 boards do not adjust as nicely as the genuine Polulo product.

[jtice]

Installed T2, told it to load firmware, said it was done.
Then went to load the default parameters and it says...
Please repeat parameter upload,,, some values were not saved.
Tried that several times, says same thing. Do you think this is a problem?

[jtice]

OK did some more testing...
I can use laser control to move the laser around, and it moves in the correct direction.
But, every so often with front to back, it will get "stuck" and just quiver. But most the time telling it to move again, it will get past that spot.

I have the belts pretty darn tight. There is decent friction when moving it by hand, but its smooth, no catches.

I will have to look for a tutorial on the pot adjustment, might be something that simple.
I do have a multi-meter.

[ggallant571]

I'm more than a little cynical about Chinese imports. A "real" manufacturer would have calibrated these parts before shipping. These goons can't be bothered to even give a hint of assembly instruction or user guides no matter answer user questions. They only thing they can do quickly is take your money.

[Zax]

Just be careful moving the gantry by hand, you can damage the motor drivers if you move it too quickly.

The belts may be too tight, or uneven. It's also possible you need to square up your machine.

There have been several posts on setting the motor current, I've posted a picture showing where to measure and the voltage you should get. If you can find anything let us know.

[jtice]

I loosened the belts just a tad and now it seems to be working ok.
Got it "working" and engraving on wood. But still alot of adjustments to be made and lots to learn to get it to look right.
I will look into the pot adjustments and make sure they are correct also.

Thanks for the help guys!

[Administrator]

I'm more than a little cynical about Chinese imports. A "real" manufacturer would have calibrated these parts before shipping. These goons can't be bothered to even give a hint of assembly instruction or user guides no matter answer user questions. They only thing they can do quickly is take your money.

...and...queue the music...www.BenboxLaser.us was born 

[Zax]

Here's the post for setting / checking your motor current.

http://benboxlaser.us/index.php/topic,66.msg548.html#msg548

[mvictor]

I have exacly the same machine. It works very good with T2 Laser - an excellent and easy  to use piece of soft (tnx ZAX).
The jumper lack has no influence it can do PWM, but the controller does not have the weak laser button. I have tried to use another controller for this button, but my 3W laser won't fire, regardless the potentiometer setting. The laser lights up at the T2 command. My problem was to focus the laser, but finally it worked.
Still I have a problem - I do not know where to position the material for the cut/engravethat is I do not know what way the gantry will move, and I have no idea where the laser will start and where it will end. Can someone explain ti.
Sorry for using this thread for my questions.
The machine came with huge settings for the motors current so I had to adjust them a lot - the regulators beame hot in less than 1 minute. Now after setting the current everything is fine.

[Zax]

@mvictor, if you are engraving images or using Sketch the lower left corner is 0,0 so wherever you set "home" is where it will start from.

DXF and Trace (raster-to-vector) use the files 0,0 by default or you can override it in the advanced settings menu.

A good way to see what's going to happen is to use the "View" on the laser controller, this is a simulation of the result and shows the extents (origin and max value) compared to what you are engraving.

Thanks for the feedback too, appreciate your comments.