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Topics - wveagle81

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Trouble Shooting / A3 Pro Laser Doesn't Fire
« on: August 22, 2020, 01:54:28 PM »

Good afternoon all.

I'm selling one of my Eleksmaker A3 Pro 2.5W diode lasers, so I hooked it up to make sure it still
works, and... it doesn't.

There's power getting to the laser because the fan is on and the LED next to the power switch on
the top of the laser module is on.  But there's no laser light, either when the button is up or

Any ideas on what I can check to find out what's going on?

I have just the controller board and the three-wire to the laser hooked up.  None of the motor
cables are connected.  The controller hooks up to the computer on the USB port just fine.


- Dale

Projects / Some of my latest work
« on: November 21, 2019, 08:39:07 PM »

Hello all, it's been a long time since I posted anything, but I've been working harder than ever to learn this thing that is laser engraving and cutting.  I've recently purchased a "new to me" Epilog 30w CO2 laser and have been busily learning its quirks, along with Corel Draw and now Photoshop.  Plus, I retired from my regular job at the end of September (and went back to work part time) so I do have some more time to work on my laser.

I just finished up my first craft show last weekend, and I did pretty well considering how small the show was.  The other vendors were impressed with what I had, and I had traffic the whole show.  Managed to sell quite a few items, although the ones I thought would go quickly didn't move at all.  You just never know I guess.

Anyway, I'm posting a link below to a dropbox folder where I store all of my finished projects.  Feel free to browse around! Ask questions if you have any.


- Dale

A brand new, slightly used, Endurance Lasers 10W setup, including all cables and controller board.  Plus a complete OpenBuilds 40" square frame including motors.

Original cost for all was:
10W Laser - $550
Frame - $300

Add in the following:

Eleksmaker A3 Pro 2.5W with replaced fan and controller board
Standard A3 Pro frame (17" x 12" I think)
Older 2.5W two-wire laser with power supply and (I think) controller board
Lots of cables, connectors, extra motors, and spare parts.

I'll sell it all for $800 plus shipping.

Trouble Shooting / Endurance Laser 10W Plus
« on: April 17, 2019, 05:26:25 AM »

Good morning.  So I finally got around to installing the 10W laser I bought a couple of months ago
and I'm having questions.  I have the wires connected properly I think and everything seems to
work just fine.  Sort of.  It doesn't seem to be putting out the power it's supposed to.  I don't have
a voltmeter/ammeter yet but I plan to purchase one this week.  I have looked at the setup docs
and videos on the Endurance site but I still have some questions.

So questions...

1.  How do I put the laser in low power mode so I can position it safely?  George says I need to set
up a g-code to put it in low power.  So do I need a separate file with some code in it to set low
power and run that in T2 for positioning, then load the regular g-code file for engraving/cutting?
If so that seems to be a bit excessive.  Or is there something in T2 I can use to set the laser in low
power so I can do positioning and run a trace outline to ensure the piece is set up properly?  It's
easy with my Eleksmaker which has a button on the top to put it in low power mode.

2.  Just to make sure I have the cables set properly... the Endurace controller box has two wires
coming out of it for laser control (to the Mana SE board).  I connected the black wire to the "-"
pin and the red wire to the "S" pin.  Is that right?

3.  When I press the "full power" switch on the red controller box the laser fires and burns straight
through my 1/16" mahogany veneer very quickly.  However, when I ran a cut file (255 power and
500 speed) it failed to cut through after 12 passes.  That seems exceedingly strange.  Why the

Any help would be appreciated.  My plan was to use the 2.5W laser to do smaller projects and testing,
and to use the 10W laser for larger projects which take more time to run.  Right now, though,
after just one day of testing (very limited to be honest) I'm not seeing an improvement.


- Dale

General Discussion / Sigh... almost time to upgrade to a "real" laser
« on: March 29, 2019, 06:59:12 AM »

I've been tooling around with the 2.5W Eleksmaker lasers and having a grand time
doing so, and I'm working on getting my new Endurance 10W laser installed.  However,
I'm beginning to think it's time I start looking into getting a more powerful laser for
cutting and engraving faster.

So I'll ask the dreaded question... what should I look for?  I'm sure CO2 or Fiber is
the next step, but I know nothing about either of them.  I work in an unheated/cooled
garage in south Texas so while it doesn't get too cold (30s or so) it does get pretty
hot (100+).

My budget, as it were, would be around $1000 but since I'm not in a hurry (yet),
it could go higher.

Also question.  If I went with a 40W/60W laser, would T2 work with it or am I going to
have to learn another program?

What do I want to do with the larger laser?  Well, right now the projects will involve lots
of cutting of 3mm material, and also (hopefully) engraving cylindrical objects like cups
and glasses.

Links to things to read and/or watch would also be appreciated.


General Discussion / Elevating the laser frame
« on: March 25, 2019, 12:37:15 PM »
I have an OpenBuilds frame (40" x 40") which is currently working just fine.  I have it elevated
by placing some slate coasters under each corner so I can more easily slide my pieces into
the work area.  The frame is not currently anchored to the backer board and I haven't built an
enclosure for it because it's so big.  I'm currently using an Eleksmaker A3 Pro 2.5W laser but
will be installing my new Endurance 10W laser into this frame probably this week.

However, I'm now going to be receiving the rotational tool from Tug and now I'll need to elevate
the frame more, to handle the new device.

So I have a couple of questions.

Is elevating the frame another 6" to 8" a problem with engraving small things like a coaster?
Is there an easy/preferred way to elevate the frame while keeping the placement of the frame intact?

My thought is to create corner braces to hold the legs of the frame in place, and screw those
to the backer board.  And then make elevation blocks which fit under the frame corners to
elevate them to the proper height.

Projects / Painted Tile
« on: March 18, 2019, 04:36:43 AM »
I've joined a FB group called "That Dude With A Laser" and he's got a dithering script for the program I use
for my images (Paint Shop Pro) and people in the group are getting excellent results with it.  So, I decided
to give it a go too, since my attempts at dithered images so far haven't been very good.

Purchased several 4" white tile from Home Depot (they are actually slightly larger than 4" for some reason)
and spray painted them with flat black.  The images were processed and resized in Paint Shop Pro, then
inverted, then I ran the dithering script against them.  Then saved there result as a BMP.  Opened in T2, set
to B/W and engrave.  Takes 2.25 hours on a 2.5W machine to engrave.  The image is reversed because the
black paint is burned off to leave the white and shades of grey.

The results are fantastic once you get the settings dialed in.  Next I need to try this on wood.  Too many
projects!  I need to get my 10W laser up and running so I can do two things at once.

Eleksmaker A3 Pro 2.5W
Speed: 800
Power: 200
Resolution: 0.1

Projects / Some recent projects
« on: March 01, 2019, 09:06:15 PM »

Bald Eagle head made of 1/16" Mahogany and Cherry veneer, mounted on a live edge Basswood plank.

Cub Scout award plaque on live edge Basswood.

Pokemon Go Team Mystic logo made of 1/16" Maple veneer mounted on a plain pine plaque, stained with Red Oak stain.

Card Protector with logos of Houston sports teams made of 1/16" Maple and Walnut veneer.

Dealer Cut Card made of 1/16" Maple veneer.

Trouble Shooting / Help with an image
« on: February 22, 2019, 06:39:56 AM »

I have the attached coat of arms for my family.  I've been able to successfully engrave
it onto a plaque and it looks fantastic.  Now I want to take this to the next level and do
a layered look with different types of wood.

The problem is, I'm not a good enough graphics artist to do the actual image manipulation.
I tried importing the image into Inkscape and converting it to SVG then DXF, but I get a
bunch of extraneous lines and such, and some of the outlines don't come out correctly.
Can anyone out there help me with this?  I'd be willing to pay.

What I'd like to be able to do is break the image up into its component parts and cut them
out separately, while preserving the details inside the parts (the seashells for example) so
they can be engraved and cut out, then layered together.

Engraving / New laser has arrived!
« on: February 17, 2019, 08:18:58 PM »

My 10W laser from Endurance Lasers has finally arrived! I need to figure out how to set
it up and get it installed next.

But I have questions first (of course).  I've gotten pretty good at using my 2.5W laser to
engrave wood, slate, and plexiglass.  Got most of the setting figured out.  So the question
now is... any suggestions for converting my settings from the 2.5W laser to the new
10W laser?  I'm not really looking forward to "wasting" a bunch of wood and slate to
get all of the new settings figured out :-)


Cutting / Keeping small pieces cut from falling through the support grid
« on: January 23, 2019, 12:03:29 PM »

I have made an air gap grid out of wire mesh from HomeDepot.  I created a frame using 1"x2"
strips and screwed them to a base.  Then I put the mesh over it and stapled it down.

Now, I'm concerned that when I cut out things which are smaller than the holes in the grid
(for inlays for example) that those pieces will fall through the grid and won't be able to get
them out.

How do you guys handle that situation?

Trouble Shooting / Star Wars ornament cutting file
« on: January 22, 2019, 12:01:01 PM »

Has anyone successfully created the Star Wars ornaments from C4 labs?  I downloaded
the files from Thingverse, but when I open the DXF file in Inkscape, there seems to be
a whole lot of unconnected lines in the various ornaments.

I'm looking to store up a bunch of image files for next Christmas.


Cutting / Recommendation Request
« on: January 21, 2019, 08:29:57 PM »

Well, I've decided I want to do more cutting.  Right now my 2.5W laser is fine for
1/16" material, but I'd like to do thicker stock.

I have three frames, a standard Eleksmaker A3 Pro, a larger cheapo Chinese frame
(my original 2W laser setup) and my much larger 40"x40" OpenBuilds frame.  I have
two 2.5W Eleksmaker lasers I can set up on two of the frames, leaving the third
for something else.

What would you recommend?  I'm not sure I want to go to the expense of a CO2
laser setup.  What would fit on one of my existing frames and still do the job of
cutting 3mm laser plywood and/or MDF?

And where would I buy it?


Cutting / Converting an SVG to DXF
« on: January 11, 2019, 09:41:32 PM »

I have another problem with a conversion.  I created this box using the MakerCase website, then copied onto the
sides of the box a tribal tattoo symbol I thought was pretty cool.  Then I saved it as a DXF but when I open it in
T2, I only get two of the components of the file - the cutout for the top, and one of the tattoos.

The original file (caseplans tall.svg) is what was downloaded from the website.

What's going on?

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