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Messages - Stonemull

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1
General Discussion / Hi bitches, tis me
« on: August 06, 2020, 07:04:30 AM »
Hiya people, been lazy and need to get back into the groove. I have not powered up a laser in months. Been too busy working, program some doohickey or another at times for fun and then when I'm sick of staring at a PC I just mould into the couch and watch netflix.

Am currently researching microwave foundrys..

Hope the virus isnt too extreme in your area.



2
General Discussion / Re: Ideal laser distance
« on: February 05, 2020, 03:54:29 PM »
58mm to the board currently, I cut a piece of ply that sits on top of the front and rear 2020 hence the height.
I can't remember why, I think my lens only just focuses and feels like it I s going to fall out if I focus on the full 100mm height.



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3
Kits / Re: 3018MAX
« on: February 05, 2020, 06:39:55 AM »
Is it this one?

http://s.aliexpress.com/UnQBJjqM

12mm rails, nice improvement.

Just remembered I did a video showing the flex.
https://youtu.be/Ixc6rcPByog



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4
Kits / Re: 3018MAX
« on: February 05, 2020, 06:28:36 AM »
The main issue with my 3018 is the x carriage rails flex, imagine lifting the spindle motor and those rails flex substantially, this causes chatter on anything metal except tiny cuts with small tools on aluminium. For this reason I even considered making the machine smaller or adding bracing that would reduce the machine size.
Now I think mine are only 8mm and the pictured one looks like maybe 10mm rails?
I have mine in bits currently to add a larger spindle motor (had a 600W lying around for a year) and I was considering the supported 12mm rail (sbr12), as soon as you do that though then you start thinking of bracing this, bracing that, 4020 instead of 2020 and before you know it, you have just about rebuilt the entire thing.
So I think I was currently cutting my losses and pretty much reassembling my current one while perhaps using it as a learning experience to make a decent metal capable version.
That max does look more robust though..



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5
General Discussion / Re: Ideal laser distance
« on: February 05, 2020, 06:08:07 AM »
Mine is nowhere near that, I would say 50mm or so, will look later.



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6
T2 Engraving / Re: Mana SE led D4 blinking [Solved]
« on: August 27, 2019, 06:54:03 PM »
no, the 6.3v cap is after the 5v regulator, thats fine.

7
Projects / Re: Laserable Paints
« on: August 27, 2019, 06:51:24 PM »
I did try some UV curable solder resist https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32959674287.html'

I can harden it with a laser, either the 405 or the engraver laser (forgot the wavelength 465?)
but I cannot get it to be tight and clean, it is either a clean etch but too soft and wipes off with acetone or it hardens where i dont want it, guess reflection off the copper, and then you need to scrub to get those areas clean and it simply damages the supposed hard areas.
once done though you give it a few minutes under sunlight and this stuff is hard as nails.



8
Projects / Re: Laserable Paints
« on: August 13, 2019, 01:51:54 AM »
for which part my man, I did a fairly comprehensive write up in I think the projects section, will have a look later, I think i got the film from aliexpress but cant see it on my orders, a search there for "photoresist" comes up with heaps.

eg https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32807962511.html

the laser I used was a 50mW 405nm line laser with the line lens removed. I also hacked it to add TTL capability which was quite simple, details of that are also here somewhere..

i think it is this one https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32666139199.html


ok here is one of threads, the last messages on http://benboxlaser.us/index.php/topic,1902.msg31281.html#msg31281 including links to where i got the bits.

and another area of that thread with a link to an imgur page showing some of the TTL mods.

http://benboxlaser.us/index.php/topic,1902.msg23757.html#msg23757





9
Projects / Re: Laserable Paints
« on: August 07, 2019, 12:18:34 AM »
The film based resists work ok if you have a laminator.
The etching laser is not ideal wavelength/size so I ended up with a 50mW 404nm laser for etch resist exposure but it will do the job.

10
Inspiration / Heraldic artwork
« on: July 26, 2019, 04:44:26 PM »
Nearly 3000 traceable images, not sure of legalities of using them but for personal use I am sure you are good. I can't wait to try some of these, SVG's too.

http://heraldicart.org/


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11
Projects / Re: Been too quiet around here
« on: July 18, 2019, 08:02:43 PM »
back to annoy yas some more then.

12
Mini CNC / Re: Waiting for my mill
« on: February 25, 2019, 07:57:09 AM »
Is worth printing a 20mm calibration cube. Mine comes in within 0.1mm. x and Y more acccurate than Z due to a little squish onto the bed, could probably more accurately get the bed height spot on and increase first layer extrusion to compensate, instead I tend to run less clearance.

Have added these rails to my cart currently as half the price of the sbr12 or regular 12mm rail and I have seen them used in much larger mills.
The 12H version of the bearings has some pretty good torque specs it appears.

Look what I found on AliExpress
http://s.aliexpress.com/JzEbyM7F


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13
Mini CNC / Re: Waiting for my mill
« on: February 25, 2019, 06:46:50 AM »
i had a quick look. you might have printed the different parts on a different axis on your printer ?
not all printers have the steps correct even, mine came with a default of 81 steps/mm on X and Y, which is wrong and I changed to 80. (3200 steps per rev/ 1 rev  = 40mm, 3200/40 = 80)

I forgot to mention a couple of things earlier, firstly I printed 19.00mm holes for the the 19.00mm bushes despite knowing it would be too tight as I noticed the latest cura has a new option under "shell" called "horizontal expansion" .. you can apply an increase/decrease in size to all polygons on a sliced layer. if set to +.1mm then a 3mm hole will print at 2.9 (or 2.8?), so its the opposite polarity to what i would expect.
The other thing is that PLA shrinks by around .3% after printing, so in theory a 19mm hole should be modelled at 19.057mm (19 * 1.003) ABS is double that at around 0.6%.
A vertical hole is smaller again unless settings are spot on as the the extruder pulls the molten material into the hole while doing a lap, single degrees in temperature can make a difference here. So yeh, I should have printed at 19.1mm probably, I had intended to try the shell offset but totally forgot about it.





14
Mini CNC / Re: Waiting for my mill
« on: February 24, 2019, 08:43:03 PM »
Thats why on the one I designed I have holes for optional locking bolts for the bearings and the fixed bush.

I need to redesign the damn one I printed,  I measured the distance between the holes on the aluminium bracket I got with my motor and made sure the 8mm rods on the Z would fit inside them if I used through bolts .. except I forgot about the 16mm bearings. so my bolts impinge on the bearing space.

this has made me look into buying SBR10 or SBR12 rod for the x and maybe upgrade the small Z distance with a longer version, except I am trying to find data on the graphite bearings instead of the usual linear bearings.

picture is with the supplied aluminium bracket, the bolt holes from that hit the larger hole for the z linear bearing though (looking at making that brown piece currently, the green piece I already have)




15
Laser Parts / Re: tapped rails for sale and rotary setup?
« on: February 24, 2019, 07:51:27 AM »
Maybe try a metal scraper and open up the slot a little bit, or a file, only need to open it up a small part of a mm each side.
I have a little hole scraper deburrer that would make short work of it. Like the first one in this video, also used on the straight edge portion. You can get them from Banggood or Aliexpress for a couple of bucks though I think I got mine from a local auto shop.


https://youtu.be/1HISXiKvmgE



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