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Messages - Koskee

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^ Pictures a little dark, but i see it! Only problem with it done this way is that it becomes no longer a "universal fix" that can be recommended to anyone with a mana board.. For example, I couldn't do this because I have a different laser module.

 Also I can report that with my mana se board and the 3.5w TTL laser (as discussed before in this thread) that these are my results so far:

1K - laser became completely unresponsive (actual value ~985ohm)
10K - no effect, laser still comes on (actual value ~9.89Kohm)
4.7K - no effect, laser still comes on (actual value ~4.66K)
(slowly chipping away at it since it's not super urgent and it would be super tedious to do it all in one go.. Will report findings once I have them)

General Discussion / Re: Replacing with a new Laser module
« on: April 09, 2017, 09:37:12 AM »
Awesome, glad to hear it.

General Discussion / Re: Are the green glasses from Chinese kits safe?
« on: April 09, 2017, 09:35:14 AM »
Seems they don't ship to Canada :-(

Edit - seems they do via

Yup and apparently there's a 10% off coupon code you can enter before checkout: LPF445

General Discussion / Re: Are the green glasses from Chinese kits safe?
« on: April 07, 2017, 09:44:39 PM »
When testing proper eye protection like that, there should be essentially nothing getting through.. That clearly had a collimated beam passing through it, to still produce a dot on the other side like that. If i had to guess, I'd say you still had at LEAST 100mw+ coming through, which is still 10x what might be considered safe..

Trying to post a link here and it keeps giving me a HTTP 403 error until I remove the link.?

General Discussion / Re: Replacing with a new Laser module
« on: April 07, 2017, 09:34:03 PM »
Sounds like you've got a solid plan. Did you end up buying it less than 3 months ago?
I'm just pretty impressed that I guessed that inductor value correctly lol

Z Axis / Re: Adjustable focus rather than a moving Z-Axis?
« on: April 06, 2017, 11:42:48 PM »
Ohh!  :o That "honeycomb" burn platform looks awesome! where can I find some of that?

I bet that would do wonders to control stray reflections..

General Discussion / Re: Replacing with a new Laser module
« on: April 06, 2017, 11:37:01 PM »
Well, that's an inductor. Unfortunately, what I know of those is fairly limited, so you'll have to wait for a few of the other people with EE backgrounds to chime in and tell you if that's a probable cause, and what to look for when buying them. I know that replacing one could be a bit complex depending on how its set up, and you'd also have to make sure you get one with the right size of footprint. Plus you would want to find someone with experience soldering surface mount components to help you get it on the board, as judging from the soldering you did prior, I don't think your current skill set will suffice unfortunately. If you were to just buy a component and try to put it on your board, you could just end up making things worse.

That's not to say you're incapable of learning, however. It would all depend on your level of commitment, how much you are willing to research (online is a great resource for that sort of thing), and how much effort you want to put in. If you just want your board fixed, then I'd suggest you find someone willing and able to fix it, or consider buying another one if possible.
If you are willing to take the time to learn how, (and I wholeheartedly encourage you to do so) it is an invaluable skill, and one that not a lot of people can do and do well. I myself am still on a journey of discovery in this area. I would recommend getting some practising soldering with some scrap boards and surface mount components before trying to fix your board yourself, because in my experience you'll most likely struggle, damage it beyond repair, and be sore that you spent even more money on components that never got you any closer to fixing it.

I found a few that might be replacements, but note that they are all different sizes, so you would need to measure yours (like the physical size in mm). I also am a bit foggy on how the numbering scheme works with these components, so this could be the wrong value altogether, but here's a few that would likely be similar:

I pulled those options from a search (looks like you have 131,435 different options :P ):

General Discussion / Re: Are the green glasses from Chinese kits safe?
« on: April 06, 2017, 10:57:30 PM »
I've heard OEM Laser Systems' stuff is top shelf, if you can find them. All of the old links to their glasses are dead though, and their main site only seems to sell lasers now, so I don't know if they got out of the business or what... but if you can find those, they are supposed to be the best.

Eagle Pair is another name that pops up frequently. Those I did manage to track down a link for:
^These have a bit better performance with the blues, or if you are looking for something a little more broadband (if you think you might consider using green 532nm DPSS lasers in the future - which often produce large amounts of invisible IR unless they are properly filtered):

Actually, seems to have a pretty good selection and for decent prices at that..

General Discussion / Re: Replacing with a new Laser module
« on: April 05, 2017, 09:18:57 PM »
First thing I would check is that the points that you soldered the wires aren't accidentally soldered to another component on the board.. I can't quite tell from the picture you posted, but it almost looks like the positive wire is bridged over to the inductor? Might just be the angle the picture was taken at. Also, you should heat those solder joints a bit more so that they melt completely.. just until they melt, don't overdo it! Would probably benefit from adding a little flux to them beforehand if you have any.

If you aren't sure if something is connected that shouldn't be, if you have a multimeter you can use that to check, set it to continuity test (the one that beeps when you touch the probes together) and make sure that when you touch each probe to two different things that it doesn't beep.

General Discussion / Re: Are the green glasses from Chinese kits safe?
« on: April 05, 2017, 08:48:51 PM »
The green glasses supplied with the kits are most definitely not safe. Put them on, and look at a blue light source (ie. a blue LED or something.. NOT THE LASER)... Now, you see how you can still see blue? That's a bad bad sign.

Another bad sign: they don't have any sort of specs included with them, not in the documentation nor on the glasses themselves. The spec you are looking for is the OD, optical density, and this number will vary based on different wavelengths. (for example, I have a set of glasses I got a long time ago that have listed right on them: OD2@405nm, OD2.1@532nm, OD2.3@445nm) and even these aren't that great as I can STILL see blue through them. You should be shooting for at least an OD of 4+.

Some info, as well as a super cheap set that seems to block a lot of 405-445nm (but you really should be using proper safety goggles):

You don't want this to happen:

General Discussion / Re: New laser module
« on: April 05, 2017, 08:18:19 PM »
Mmm.. I'm reeeally doubting a 23$ 405 is going to be able to put out 1W. eBay isn't the best place to buy diodes as a lot of the sellers use the language barrier as an excuse to flat out lie about things like that. In this case it says it's coming from China and the amount of overstated/counterfeit/inadequate product that comes from that area of the world will absolutely blow your mind.

That being said, 23$ isn't a huge gamble to be taking in the grand scheme of things, plus you said you wanted another diode to have in case of failure, so its not the worst purchase you could have made. I would guess it would be around the same 500mw that you already have, as I've seen lots of diodes in that range shipping from china (whether those claims are valid have yet to be determined). I wouldn't be overly surprised if it was less than 500. I'd be more and more surprised the farther above 500 it turned out to be.

Sites that sell diodes that are extremely overstated are a dime a dozen based on the simple premise that the average person buying them (especially on a site like eBay) is not going to have a power meter readily available in order to test it and determine if they were lied to or not. In reality most people are only comparing the brightness to other lasers that they have seen, and they may or may not have accurate numbers for what they are comparing it to, so really unless you have a power meter, everyone is pretty much making a somewhat educated guess at best.

Not trying to make you regret the purchase nor say it was a bad choice at all, I mean you can't really go wrong for a bit more than 20 bucks. Who knows, maybe you'll get lucky. If not you could just build it into a handheld. ;)

Here is the module I got, it cost me about $98 US or $130-140CAD (I got it in the 20mm module with driver and G2 lens.. basically all the bells and whistles because I wanted it to be as close to plug and play as possible. I also have a TTL board and XYZ style mount/heatsink on order for it.

Z Axis / Re: Adjustable focus rather than a moving Z-Axis?
« on: April 04, 2017, 08:32:59 PM »
Thank you. So you're saying it's essentially too tall or at least not really going to fit or be appropriate for these machines?  Or did I misinterpret that entirely?

What I had in mind was more of a raised laser/cnc frame and/or recessed jack type setup, where the jack is just used for the Z axis actuation either 1 centered, 4 corners or 5 in an x pattern depending in the size of the vertical platform. And using some sort of electronic control on those jack(s) to raise and lower in unison and with precision..

Simplest method would prob be to have a square hole cut out of the surface of the table and a platform(shelf) of some sort to support the jack on the bottom such that the top lines up with your laser x-y, drop it into the hole, add electric actuation, and voila. you have a vertical axis

Obviously would be a lot of custom design and construction involved, but I didn't think that was part of the question/most upgrades to these lasers are homebrew anyway

General Discussion / Re: New laser module
« on: April 04, 2017, 08:12:18 PM »

Question... what is the highest watts for a 405nm for now I see
or saw 1watt as the maximum, is there something more powerful
with that wave length

Not currently. But with the 405 you are getting a higher power density because it is a smaller "dot" size. It has to do with output vs surface area that it covers. I've seen a few different comparisons and even calculations that show the 16x 405nm (bluray) as burning faster than some of the higher power 445-450s due to the increased beam concentration at the focal point.

The 16x is likely what you saw, it literally comes from a 16x computer bluray burner (LG?)  that somebody has pulled it out of. Unfortunately running these at 1w is a bit out of spec for them and they have a tendency to die rather quickly at this power level. I think the guys over there were saying not to run them above 600ma? Which actually translates to over 800mw (in these diodes) , if my memory serves me.

I actually just got one of these myself, it's sitting here waiting for its heatsink and TTL board. ;)

Before you "order a 1k resistor" I would suggest ordering a pack of them, many different values. For the price you'll end up paying for a single + shipping,  you can get a handful of all different kinds that (assuming you will be doing something with electronics down the road) will come in handy at times you never would have expected. A few dollars will score you anywhere up to 50 different values x 10 of each. There's smaller packs as well.  Check eBay or whatever your site of preference may be. These are always good to have on hand, and are plenty cheap enough to do so. Then the value doesn't really matter until you receive them & then you won't order the wrong one! ;)

Edit: I tried a 10K, and the effect was the opposite.. The laser still works, however, it also still turns on when going into the control interface, so now I will try values between 1k and 10k until I find something suitable.

I tried to use the scope on it, didn't really get very far with it other than I had what appeared to be a PWM signal that kind of looked like --> I==I==I== (not really sure how I can use that to find the appropriate value, but the signal was in the 2us range if that means anything? Like I said this thing is analog as fk, and hasn't been calibrated since the early 90s lol)

Z Axis / Re: Laser Beam Alignment
« on: April 02, 2017, 10:00:02 PM »
This is probably obvious, but careful with the acrylic fumes!

I was well aware of what was going to happen, but one thing I really wanted to engrave was acrylic because of its optical properties (for edge lit LED displays). So earlier tonight I figured I would just do a test run and see what I got for results. I cut a line no longer than about 10mm into a piece of 1/4" acrylic and the smell was really potent. Granted it still had the protective sheet on it, but it was definitely more than I had expected scent wise. Not sure if it would shine through without the protection or burn, but not something to be done indoors.

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