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Messages - Koskee

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Z Axis / Re: Adjustable focus rather than a moving Z-Axis?
« on: April 02, 2017, 09:38:27 PM »
Lab jacks are small platforms that don't match the operating envelope of the laser.

Thewha? lol I couldn't even begin to guess what an operating envelope is, and I've come across the term envelope in a few different (sometimes technical) meanings. No idea here..

Mana SE, without the jumper. I bought it around Xmas 2016.

General Discussion / Re: Engraver repairs
« on: April 02, 2017, 07:47:24 PM »
Why not just take the issue to paypal if you still have protection? If their funding for the item is threatened to be pulled, they'll know you're unhappy and that you mean business.. they'll likely work to resolve it much more diligently/quickly.

Word of caution though, you'd possibly lose any favour/niceties with the company, if that matters to you.

General Discussion / Re: New laser module
« on: April 02, 2017, 07:37:53 PM »
It is also a given that a wavelength higher than 405nm will not be able to give as small of a focused output as a 405nm.. Quite litterally the longer wavelength means the dot must be wider, all else being equal. To get a smaller dot than a 405 you'd have to get into UV frequencies, which will be invisible (potential safety hazard), of which few are available, and are (often much) lower power from what I've seen.

General Discussion / Re: New laser module
« on: April 02, 2017, 07:25:23 PM »
The G2s actually tend to make most visible lasers output higher by 5-30% depending on wavelength. They are specifically intended for 405~450nm. Essentially, a single element collimation lens will almost always outperform a 2 or 3 element lens (due to transfer losses I believe. More things to pass through = higher losses)

I guess a G9 is slightly better than a G2 (in the 400nm range anyway), but they must be extracted out of an array found in a projector, so are a little harder to come by.

Here is an outstanding experimental data set on different lenses that I've found that might illustrate the differences a little better:

edit: I'm not sure what type of lens comes included with the modules we have, I haven't had a chance to pull mine out and see if I could ID.

I have a really old analog scope, not good for much other than getting an idea what's going on. I'm not sure how to actually read voltages off of it and besides, it hasn't been calibrated since I got it off of eBay so I doubt it would be all that accurate anyway.

If you're using a 10k then maybe I will try that instead of messing about with measuring anything.

So I did this mod with a 1k resistor, but the only effect was that it made my laser unresponsive. Trying to send Gcode wouldn't work, although i could still manually jog the steppers. As soon as I removed the resistor, it was business as usual. This leads me to believe that the pulldown that was installed was too strong for the signal from the arduino to be properly transfered. Are we sure that 1k is the appropriate value for the pulldown? Most any pullup/down I've ever seen are more on the order of 4.7k-100k+ with 10k being a very common value.

Z Axis / Re: Adjustable focus rather than a moving Z-Axis?
« on: March 31, 2017, 05:13:24 PM »
Well I'm having trouble finding it, but I'm pretty sure I saw some sort of electronic controlled version of this:

I thought I saw it on Banggood, but I can't seem to locate it atm. Even if you attached the hand crank in the picture to a stepper motor instead, or mounted the platform to a linear actuator/threaded rod type of actuation might do the trick. These ^ seem cheap enough, but I think the other one was either 50 or 100 bucks each if I remember right.

General Discussion / Re: Well, my jaw just hit the floor..
« on: March 31, 2017, 03:34:43 PM »
lol.. knew I must have been missing something.

General Discussion / Re: New laser module
« on: March 31, 2017, 04:21:27 AM »
if you're looking for a good lens, the G2 is very popular, and is the best I can name. There might be better, but you'd likely need to give up an arm or a leg for something better.
The G2 will run you about $25-30/each. If you think you'd like to get one, DTR is a reputable seller, just google DTR laser shop and you'll find it no problem.

Make sure you get one that is suitable for the specific wavelength you are using.

General Discussion / Well, my jaw just hit the floor..
« on: March 31, 2017, 04:14:43 AM »
I was just nosing around on mouser, and I came across these diodes for the fantastic price of $31..
They are pulsed NIR diodes @ 905nm (pretty sure thats the wavelength commonly found in police LiDAR systems actually) with peak outputs of 75W. (absolute max of 90W in the datasheet)
They'll suck back a whopping 40A of current. These sound amazing lol. I'm just wondering what the he** I'm playing with 3.5W for when I could be cutting some serious sh**! And just think if you threw a crystal in front of it to double it up to 452nm, that would be a seriously bright blue laser. (or maybe it would vaporize the crystal... who knows, could go either way  :P )

Would obviously need any and all safety precautions associated with co2 tubes however, like fully enclosed key-interlock, and viewable only by CCTV, for example, but I'm having a hard time believing the price of these.

Trouble Shooting / Re: What everyday items has mosfets in them
« on: March 31, 2017, 03:35:38 AM »
I live in Canada too. Mouser, DigiKey, Newark, etc are all fantastic at putting their products at your door within a few days. As long as you don't order something that's on backorder, it won't take long. You might have to pay a bit of shipping, (especially on a small order. should still be <$10) but you'll have it in your hands in less than a week (and that's a pretty generous overestimation at that). I don't think i've waited more than about 4 or 5 days, ever.

As did I.. Did you have as much trouble with it as I did? Whatever type of solder they use on there doesn't want to melt worth a damn. I suspect it's low quality lead free paste that they're using. For me I was concerned that I was going overheat some components before I could get a decent flow going. Standard rosin flux seemingly has no effect on it neither which was a bit surprising I thought.

I noticed tonite after doing a quick test burn that it does come in for a few seconds when going to control last menu option  So far I find it can be avoided by turning off the 12v button on the front of the mana before attempting to switch... As a temp fix for the time being

OMG it works. Awesome. Problem was, as Zax said, wires were reversed.

In the attached image, you can see that the white connector with + and - markings is facing the opposite way from the other 2 blue connectors like it. The same connector (+-) is clearly not within the bounds of the silk screen outline directly under it. It isn't a problem for that connector, since + and - are clearly labeled and they don't provide a cable to plug into it.

However, on the board I have, it had the laser output backwards and the TTL backwards as well. I'll admit, I may have accidentally turned the laser output around myself when trying to pull the connector out of its socket and the whole thing came off - I can't remember exactly. But I know the other one came that way for sure (and I probably just used the backwards one as a reference if that's what happened. Good thing I never tried reversing the TTL signal before I figured that out though, since that would have been -7.55v into the laser head.. And my guess would be that any driver inside wouldn't take that kind of abuse, based on the spectacular engineering these guys seem to put out :-\ )

Anyway, thanks for the time spent everyone  8)
Now all I need is a shark. ( So I can mount this on its frickin head! )


I also remember the power was reversed, so I had to lift the latch up and connect it "backwards" for it to work.

Can you elaborate on this a little more? When you say lift the latch up, do you mean the latch on one of the connectors or..?
Mine came with a bunch of red gunk that was obviously to stop the connector(s)  from being disconnected from the LD&fan.  When I tried to pull the connector apart, the entire connector housing came off and left only the 2 bare pins behind lol. That stuff is surprisingly strong, I'm guessing it's some sort of epoxy.

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