Author Topic: Testing Printer  (Read 2820 times)

Merlin

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Testing Printer
« on: May 18, 2018, 10:05:43 PM »
Well people have put the Tarantula together after much *&%$*@&%words, pulling apart and reassembling.
After much checking and rechecking I have come to the conclusion that the LCD board don't want to play nice (power to the mother board and fans running but nothing from the LCD board...Bugger

Now it took about 22 days for the printer to arrive so really don't want to wait that long for a new LCD board.
Can I run the printer (for testing and setting up) , direct from a laptop.
And if so Baby steps please, I'm very pissed at the moment what with Doctors and the like telling me There's nothing they can do anymore.
I just gotta suck it up and live with pain.  Bugger again.


Thanks people Merlin
Laser: A5 500mw with Mana SE -- using T2Laser
Tevo Tarantular 3D Printer

"Try not!Do!
or do not!
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The Empire Strikes Back
1980

ggallant571

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Re: Testing Printer
« Reply #1 on: May 18, 2018, 10:55:36 PM »
I do about 50% of my 3D printing from the USB port. It is a single click in Cura. You could test the printer by connecting via a terminal emulator and issuing simple g-code commands. Same a when using a laser etcher/cutter, you don't want the host PC to go to sleep during a long job.
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ThothLoki

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Re: Testing Printer
« Reply #2 on: May 18, 2018, 11:24:22 PM »
If you have a Raspberry Pi, you could run it through Octoprint. That is how I control my printer. I use a Pi zero w ($10)
Laser: 2x EleksMaker A3s
3D Printer: Monoprice Maker Select v2 / Sovol SV01
Image Resizer Applications (All OS): http://benboxlaser.us/index.php/topic,1434.msg17297.html#msg17297

wild.bill

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Re: Testing Printer
« Reply #3 on: May 19, 2018, 07:45:56 AM »
99% of the time its not the LCD board that is the problem, its the cabling. That controller and the LCD are used on many different printers and the forums for the printers are full of people having problems with the LCD.

Make sure its 1 to 1 and 2 to 2 and try adjusting the brightness control. If that still doesn't work there are many that have connectors with the key's wrong so try reversing the connectors - which may require cutting the key's off.

Also if it is a bad LCD its very common and you can get them from lots of places and they are cheap. I know that I have at least one spare if not more. Last the printer works just fine only using the USB port - so the LCD is not really required. My i3 didn't have one and I added it as an option.
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Merlin

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Re: Testing Printer
« Reply #4 on: May 20, 2018, 04:03:27 AM »
Hay thanks for the info....But I found the problem, the acrylic top for the LCD screen the hole was drilled off center and therefore the rotating button when pressed down never came up again, thus it was off.
When I realigned the button all was good, now just have to find out all the steps see what this thing can do.

Ha Ha baby steps will be trial and error to do the settings, don't seem to find anything on the internet bout them.

Merlin
Laser: A5 500mw with Mana SE -- using T2Laser
Tevo Tarantular 3D Printer

"Try not!Do!
or do not!
There is no Try!"
The Empire Strikes Back
1980

wild.bill

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Re: Testing Printer
« Reply #5 on: May 20, 2018, 07:23:29 AM »
To find anything about how they work you need to look at the marlin firmware.

If you are good with software you can change the marlin firmware and customize the interface.
Laser: was an A3 2.0w TTL L6/GRBL Z axis now 2'x3'
          OpenBuilds ACRO 510 w/ 2.0W TTL laser Cohesion Mini/Smoothie Z axis Homing switches
          K40 Cohesion Mini 60W LightObject LPS
          80W CO2 Red-Black 500x700

cool is simply a subjective state of mind

Merlin

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Re: Testing Printer
« Reply #6 on: May 20, 2018, 02:33:44 PM »
Hey thanks Bill..But software is not my forte. But I will prevail.

Merlin
Laser: A5 500mw with Mana SE -- using T2Laser
Tevo Tarantular 3D Printer

"Try not!Do!
or do not!
There is no Try!"
The Empire Strikes Back
1980

kibodwin

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Re: Testing Printer
« Reply #7 on: May 21, 2018, 01:06:13 AM »
3D printing can test your patience, I just failed on the last bit of a 3 hour print...
If you have not already done so, print a cube of a specific size so you can make sure the printer is correctly calibrated. Also, I only now print from the sd card as the print stops when my pc goes into sleep mode.. you might want to disable it if you do long prints.
let us know how you get on!
=)
Laser: 2500mw A5 eleksmaker L5, K40 with Cohesion3D mini board, air assist, laser pointer etc..
OS: Windows 7, Debian, OpenSuse, Kali
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ThothLoki

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Re: Testing Printer
« Reply #8 on: May 21, 2018, 09:59:55 AM »
One thing to consider when printing the calibration cubes is that if you calibrate your printer to a 20mm cube, it may be way off on larger prints. I made an L shape 150x150mm and calibrated to that. I have a 200mm square bed so that worked out well for me. I got a lot more accurate prints after that calibration versus the 20mm cube.
Laser: 2x EleksMaker A3s
3D Printer: Monoprice Maker Select v2 / Sovol SV01
Image Resizer Applications (All OS): http://benboxlaser.us/index.php/topic,1434.msg17297.html#msg17297

Merlin

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Re: Testing Printer
« Reply #9 on: May 24, 2018, 03:53:27 AM »
Drama over, I found some small wee electronic parts in the bottom of the box it came in, :-[ and had wee look around the internet and found out they are Stepper Driver Parts that clip on to the motherboard.
Wow what a different they make the motors all go up and down left to right and right to left or what ever ;D ;D

Thanks for all who helped in this wee drama now just the Laser/Engraver to fix, until then I need some sleep, so nightie nightie

Merlin
Laser: A5 500mw with Mana SE -- using T2Laser
Tevo Tarantular 3D Printer

"Try not!Do!
or do not!
There is no Try!"
The Empire Strikes Back
1980

kibodwin

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Re: Testing Printer
« Reply #10 on: May 24, 2018, 04:15:36 AM »
glad to see it is working correctly. The motor drivers have a small potentiometer that allow you to change the current sent to the motors... more makes them hotter and louder but more torky (so I have been lead to believe ) and less makes them more quiet and less powerful.. there is a sweet spot that is usually already dialled in.
=)
Laser: 2500mw A5 eleksmaker L5, K40 with Cohesion3D mini board, air assist, laser pointer etc..
OS: Windows 7, Debian, OpenSuse, Kali
Software: T2Laser, laserweb4, Repitier, Cura
Prusa i3 Clone GT2560
Anycubic Kossel Delta ramps

Merlin

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Re: Testing Printer
« Reply #11 on: May 24, 2018, 02:42:26 PM »
Kibodwin: thanks for that so I don't need to mess with any thing on the potentiometer  :-\ then
Laser: A5 500mw with Mana SE -- using T2Laser
Tevo Tarantular 3D Printer

"Try not!Do!
or do not!
There is no Try!"
The Empire Strikes Back
1980

kibodwin

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Re: Testing Printer
« Reply #12 on: May 25, 2018, 12:23:58 AM »
if the movement is good and the motors are not getting too hot to touch then you are good! If you do change something mark the original spot and count the turns (go in 1/4 turn increments) so you can always come back to the original setting. There are plenty of online guide as to how to measure the resistance needed between the pot and ground for particular motors..
but if its not broken....
happy printing
=)
Laser: 2500mw A5 eleksmaker L5, K40 with Cohesion3D mini board, air assist, laser pointer etc..
OS: Windows 7, Debian, OpenSuse, Kali
Software: T2Laser, laserweb4, Repitier, Cura
Prusa i3 Clone GT2560
Anycubic Kossel Delta ramps